Class 

Book JlkKi 

Copyright N° 

COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



ROSES 



* 



The Rambler hybrids are unsurpassed for house or pillar decoration. 
This is the Dawson, with bright pink flowers, produced in June 



ROSES 

AND HOW TO GROW THEM 

A Manual for Growing Roses in the 
Garden and Under Glass 



ILLUSTRATED 




NEW YORK 
Doubleday, Page & Company 
1905 



lUBRABY of JUNGtftSS; 

JUN is 

GLASS* ^ XAc INu; 

copy a. 



Copyright, 1901, 1902, 1903, 1904, 1905, by 
Doubleday, Page & Company 
Published, June, 1905 



All rights reserved, including that 
of translation into foreign languages, 
including the Scandinavian. 



PREFACE 



All that is really necessary for the amateur 
rose grower to know in order that he may 
intelligently make a rose garden, select his 
varieties and grow the harvest of bloom, is 
told in this volume. Many books on the 
rose are more bulky, but the additional matter 
is not of an essential character. In this 
volume everything not directly to the point 
of practical rose growing for the American 
amateur is omitted. 

The writings of several expert amateur 
rosarians which have appeared in The Garden 
Magazine and Country Life in America, have 
been drawn upon freely in the preparation of 
the text; notably articles by Dr. Robert Huey 
and Mr. Aaron Ward for the outdoor culti- 
vation. Mr. Leonard Barron provides the 
chapters on " Roses for Special Purposes" and 
"Roses Under Glass " — excepting the section 
dealing with American Beauties, which is by 
Mr. Henry Hentz, Jr. 



VI 



PREFACE 



Acknowledgments are due to Prof. B. M. 
Watson for information on propagation; and 
to Professor Slingerland for information on 
insect pests; Prof. Byron D. Halsted is 
quoted on fungous diseases. Suggestions 
have also been received from Mr. L. B. Craw 
and from Mr. J. A. Payne, in regard to 
greenhouse construction. 



CONTENTS 



CHAPTER 

L 


When, Where, and How to Plant 


PAGE 

3 


n. 


The Routine of Work . 


22 


in. 


Pruning . . 


• 35 


IV. 


Insects, Diseases, and Spraying . 


• 47 


V. 


The Rosarian's Calendar 


. 6g 


VI. 


Roses for Cut Flowers Under Glass 


■ 72 


VII. 


Types and Races .... 


. 110 


VIII. 


Roses for Special Purposes . 


. 124 


IX. 


Roses of American Origin 


• 165 






• !79 



vii 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



A Rambler Rose for House Decoration Frontispiece 

FACING PAGE. 

How To Make a Rose Bed . . . . 4 
Four First-class Garden Roses . . .11 
Two of the Best Hybrid Tea Roses . . .18 

Killed by a Sucker 27 

A Low-budded Plant 29 

A High-budded Plant 32 

How to Plant and Prune . . . -34 
Spring Pruning for Quantity of Bloom . . 43 

Pruning Rosa Rugosa 45 

Beating the Commoner Insect Pests . . 48 
Portraits of Favourite Roses .... 50 
Reine Marie Antoinette as a Trellis Rose . 59 
Standard Roses in a Famous Garden , . 61 
Lord Penzance Hybrid Sweetbriers ... 64 
A Close View of the Altai Rose .... 66 
How Tender Roses Flourish in the Warmer 

States 71 

A Hybrid Tea Rose as Grown Under Glass . 86 
A Modern Even-span Rose House ... 93 
A Modern Three-quarter-span Rose House . 96 

ix 



X 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 



Spraying Roses Under Glass for Red Spider . 10 
The Best Rose for Hedges and Seaside . .11 
A Nearly Single Form of the Provence Rose . 12 
Rosa Blanda in Shrubbery Foreground . .13 
An Ideal Rose Bed for Flowers, and One of the 

Best H. P.'s . 135 

The Altai Rose in Shrubbery Plantings . . 14 
The Only Type of Rose Fit for a Lawn . .14, 

Two Most Popular Roses 1 5< 

The Prairie Roses for Covering Tree Trunks . 15, 
Roses Grown as Vines . . ... .16 

A Garden of Roses and Herbaceous Plants . 17, 
Rosa Setigera in the Wild Garden . . . 171 
Pruning Diagrams . . . Pages 36, 37, 40, 4 



ROSES 



ROSES 

CHAPTER I 
When, Where and How to Plant 

The site — Best exposure — Making the best of other con- 
ditions — Why low ground is to be avoided — The soil 
— Must be well drained — Preparation of the soil — 
Manure — Laying out the beds — Preparing to plant 
on a lawn — Soils for different groups — Treatment of 
newly arrived plants — Spring planting best — How to 
plant — Budded or own-root plants — Planting from 
pots. 

The ideal site for a rose garden is airy but 
sheltered (especially from the biting winds of 
winter), open to the sun some part of the day, 
quite free from the influence of large or 
growing trees, and preferably a little above 
the general level of the rest of the garden. It 
must not be the lowest spot. A southern 
exposure is desirable, and, if it is necessary to 
make a choice, the morning sun is best. 
Partial shade will do less harm to dark-red 
roses than to roses of other colours. Some 



4 



ROSES 



protection from high winds is good, but not 
at the cost of having a close, stuffy location. 

The beginner in rose growing will do well 
to weigh carefully the advantages and disad- 
vantages of available sites. The soil may be 
poor and unsuitable. We can change that 
by taking away the present soil and filling in 
with soil from the meadow. Drainage and 
shelter can be provided, but if an error has 
been made in the site, all these accessories 
will avail little. 

Low grounds are more subject to late spring 
frosts than adjacent places only a few feet 
higher, and late spring frosts are much to be 
dreaded after the tender shoots of the rose 
bushes have put forth. While shelter from 
high winds is very desirable, it must not be 
secured by trees whose roots can reach the 
beds. The roots of growing trees may be 
regarded as spreading from the trunk for at 
least a distance equal to the height of the tree. 
Thus if a tree is sixty feet high the rose bed 
should be at least that distance away; if 
nearer, the tree roots will revel in the enriched 
soil of the bed and appropriate the food 
needed for the roses. If the bed must be 
made nearer than this it may be protected 



TO MAKE A ROSE BED 



Dig three feet deep; throw away the bad soil; put in broken bricks or 
stones for drainage; then some inverted sods; then alternate layers of well- 
rotted manure and loam; finally a foot of loam. When planting spread the 
roots and work the soil thoroughly 



WHEN, WHERE AND HOW TO PLANT 5 



from encroachment of the tree root by sinking 
a four-and-one-half-inch brick wall below the 
bottom of the bed and building up to near the 
surface. But this is troublesome and expen- 
sive. A fence of hemlock plank will do well 
for some years, but the roots will eventually 
find their way through. 

It is not to be inferred that roses will grow 
only under these ideal conditions. Reason- 
ably good plants and blooms can be attained 
in much less favorable situations. Many 
village gardens containing only a few feet of 
ground, and shaded for at least half of the 
day, yield flowers that are a delight to the 
growers and their friends; but happy is he 
who has the opportunity of selecting the best 
place for a rose garden and does it. 

THE SOIL AND WHEN TO PREPARE IT 

The best soil is a deep loam. Well-drained 
ground is essential and the site should never 
before have been used for roses, unless fresh 
earth is substituted for the old. 

Roses abhor wet feet, and if the soil is wet 
it must be thoroughly drained. This can 
usually be accomplished by digging out the 
bed to a depth of three feet and filling in one 



6 



ROSES 



foot with broken stone, bricks, cinders, gravel, 
or anything that will permit a free passage 
of water. 

If this is not sufficient and the water is not 
carried away quickly, provision must be made 
for this by tile draining, but except in very 
extreme cases, the drainage before mentioned 
will be sufficient. 

At least three months before planting — to 
allow time for settling — the soil for the beds 
should be dug to the depth of two feet and 
liberally enriched with well-rotted manure; 
preferably with cow manure, though horse 
manure is good. 

MAKING BEDS 

The size which the beds shall be made is 
governed by the certain considerations of 
convenience in after years. All the bushes 
must be readily reached without leaving the 
walks; the surface of the beds must be access- 
ible in every part for frequent cultivation, and 
the expense and labour of cultivating unneces- 
sary space should be avoided. 

With the exception of the climbers and the 
Rugosas (which ought not to be planted in 
the beds at all), a space of twenty-one inches 



WHEN, WHERE AND HOW TO PLANT 7 



from plant to plant is sufficient to meet the 
above requirements. Accordingly rose gar- 
dens are usually laid out in parallelograms of 
any length, but with the width limited to five 
feet. Such a bed should contain three paral- 
lel rows, twenty-one inches apart, the outer 
rows twelve inches from the edge. The paths 
between beds should be not less than five feet 
in width, to admit of the passage of the water 
barrel. If more space is available, this width 
of path, as well as the space between the 
individual plants, could be increased to 
advantage. The paths look best if in grass, 
but well-rolled cinder paths are good and 
save troublesome weeding. They are the 
best for wet weather. 

Beds for Hybrid Perpetuals made with a 
width of four feet will usually be found most 
satisfactory, as a double row can be planted 
at intervals of two and a half feet, which will 
be sufficient space for the strongest-growing 
varieties, and the beds can be worked and 
the blooms gathered without the necessity of 
trampling the soil. 

Space may be economised by setting the 
plants not directly but diagonally opposite 
each other. They will then be one foot from 



8 



ROSES 



the edge and thirty inches apart, and each 
plant will be fully exposed to the light and 
air and will not interfere with its neighbours. 

For Teas and Hybrid Teas the width of 
the bed may profitably be reduced to even 
three feet. The plants can be set eight 
inches from the edge and two feet apart, 
which will be ample space. 

MAKING A BED ON THE LAWN 

In preparing a bed on a lawn the sod and 
soil should first be entirely removed and 
placed apart. The best of the subsoil should 
then be taken out and placed on the opposite 
side of the trench, and finally the portion to 
be discarded, making in all a depth of at least 
two feet. The floor should be loosened up 
to the full depth of a pick-head, the good sub- 
soil replaced and mixed with a generous 
dressing of well-decomposed manure (prefer- 
ably that from a cow stable). Lastly the sod 
should be well broken up and the top soil also 
thoroughly enriched with manure, and the 
bed filled with good unmanured top soil to 
about two or three inches above the adjoining 
surface, enough good soil being added to 



WHEN, WHERE AND HOW TO PLANT 9 



replace the discarded earth. When the bed 
has settled, the surface should be one inch 
below that of the adjoining sod, in order that 
all rainfall be retained. It is a grave error to 
make a rose bed higher than the adjacent sur- 
face, as in hot weather the soil dries out and 
the plants suffer for want of moisture. If 
possible, the bed should be made several 
weeks in advance of planting, to allow time 
for settling. 

SPECIAL SOILS TO BE PROVIDED 

The different classes of roses have different 
soil requirements, and wherever the best 
flowers are sought the beds should be prepared 
each for one class rather than mixing all 
classes indiscriminately. The Hybrid Per- 
petuals require a heavy soil containing some 
clay — what is known as a heavy loam answers 
admirably — and if this can be obtained from 
an old pasture where the growth has been 
luxuriant, nothing could be better. The top 
spit should be taken with the grass roots and 
chopped into very small pieces, care being 
taken to bury the grass roots several inches 
deep to prevent the possibility of growth. We 
want the humus they contain for the roses. 



10 



ROSES 



For Teas, Hybrid Teas, Noisettes and 
Bourbons a lighter, warmer soil is desirable. 
Three-fourths of the compost already de- 
scribed, into which about one-fourth of sand 
and leaf-mould has been thoroughly mixed, 
will be found entirely satisfactory. It is 
important to remember that all the manure 
should be incorporated w T ith the lower two- 
thirds of the soil. The upper third should 
not contain any recently added manure, as 
this will rot the roots of the new plants, which 
should be covered with fine, friable soil. 
When growth begins the roots attract the rich 
moisture from beneath and appropriate it as 
it reaches them, without any danger of the 
roots being burned by fermenting manure 

The beds or borders may be edged with 
either stone, terra-cotta, cement coping, or 
planted with a border of some close-growing 
herbaceous plants, such as funkia or some 
varieties of lychnis or dianthus. But still bet- 
ter, for edging rose borders and other flower 
beds in permanent flower gardens, is the old- 
fashioned boxwood. The stone edge, or 
anything related to it, will be avoided by the 
artistic gardener. The beds being prepared, 
we are ready for the planting. 



KILLARNEY 

The best Hybrid Tea rose. Blooms large, 
pale pink, shaded deeper 



SUZANNE MARIE DE RHODO- 
CANACHI 
One of the best Hybrid Tea roses. Deep 
Trench pink, a unique colour 






ETIENNE LEVET ULRICH BRUNNER 

H. P. Fine carmine red, large and of good The most satisfactory H. P. Cherry crimson, 
form, but a shy bloomer large size, develops all blooms well 

FOUR FIRST-CLASS GARDEN ROSES 



WHEN, WHERE AND HOW TO PLANT II 



WHEN TO PLANT 

Hybrid Perpetuals and Rugosas may be 
planted in early November, and one need not 
hesitate to plant most of the Hybrid Teas and 
the hardier Teas at the same time if prepared 
to protect them properly after the first frost. 
But, as a rule, spring planting of roses gives 
the most satisfactory results in the end. The 
Hybrid Perpetuals and Rugosas should be 
planted just as soon as the soil is in suitable 
condition and the frost out of the ground, 
usually about March 25th in the vicinity of 
New York. All others are best planted after 
April 20th, when the danger of sharp frosts 
is past. 

HANDLING NEWLY ARRIVED PLANTS 

If the plants arrive in a shrivelled con- 
dition, soak them thoroughly in water and 
bury them completely in a trench, again 
soaking them with water. Uncover after 
three days and they will usually be found 
revived. If the plants arrive in wet weather, 
or when the ground is frozen, do not open the 
box, but place it in a barn or other dry place 
where there is no artificial heat. Cover it 
with matting or blankets if the weather is cold. 



12 



ROSES 



When the weather is dry and conditions fit for 
planting, unpack the roses in a place sheltered 
from the wind and sun. From this time on 
it is absolutely necessary to avoid undue 
exposure of the roots. In sorting out the 
varieties while still under cover, use old mats 
or straw to keen the roots covered. 

With the tender varieties, dormant planting 
out of doors is attended with much risk 
because of the inability of these plants to 
endure our rigorous winters before becoming 
established. Consequently, they need much 
more protection than the hardy sorts. Where 
the thermometer reaches 15 below zero it is 
better to defer planting until the early spring, 
provided the plants can be safely housed 
during the winter. This can be done by 
digging a pit about fifteen inches in depth 
in a dry, cold cellar or outhouse and packing 
the dormant plants in it, covering roots and 
tops with fine earth. After one good soaking 
with water they may be safely left until early 
spring unless they become very dry, in which 
case they may be watered again. After the 
plants become firmly established,, which will 
be in one season, there is much less likelihood 
of their being injured by the cold. 



WHEN, WHERE AND HOW TO PLANT 



l 3 



Tender roses, planted on or about April 
20th, may have thrown over them a few loose 
handfuls of old hay, or other light covering, 
to protect from possible late frosts and 
from the glare of the sun. After about ten 
days this shelter may be removed. The hardy 
roses do not need even this. 

HOW TO PLANT 

It is best to unpack the plants under the 
cover of some convenient shed, and to take 
to the beds, at one time, no more than can 
be properly protected nearby or promptly 
planted. During this move some people 
protect the roots by dipping them in mud; 
others carry the plants about in pails with the 
roots immersed in water. All these precau- 
tions are taken to avoid the immediate and 
very harmful drying action of the sun, and 
especially of the wind, upon the fibrous roots 
of the plants. Hence the first rule for plant- 
ing is to wait for dry soil and to select, if pos- 
sible, a calm, cloudy day. 

Too deep and too shallow planting are 
equally damaging; the first is certain to kill 
the plant by rotting the stem, and the second 



ROSES 



leads to spindly, unsatisfactory growth, be- 
sides exposing the roots to serious strain in 
high winds, which dry out the soil to a remark- 
able degree. The success of Mr. Prince in 
England with shallow planting should not 
govern us in the climate of America, where 
the trials of the winter are more rigorous. 
Moreover, in the case of budded stock, 
deep planting has this added advantage, that 
the upper part will develop robts of its own 
and in time become independent of the stock 
which carried it. 

The planting can be done by one person, 
but two working together will accomplish 
relatively much more and do better work; 
one holding the plant and the other filling in. 
In planting a long row, it will save time to 
trench out the site with a wheel hoe to a 
depth slightly greater than is required. 
Measure off and stake out the rose places, 
plant, and fill in. 



BUDDED VS. OWN-ROOT PLANTS 

Garden roses can be obtained from the deal- 
ers grown in two ways, either on their own 
roots or budded on the Manetti or brier stock. 



WHEN, WHERE AND HOW TO PLANT 15 



There is some difference of opinion as to the 
relative values of "budded" and "own-root" 
roses. The advocates of the latter declare 
that the wild wood will sooner or later choke 
and kill the budded growth. This point is 
well taken if we admit the necessity of per- 
mitting the wild growth to develop, but if 
planting has been correctly done wild wood 
rarely breaks out. If it does, as it happens 
in exceptional cases, it can be easily dis- 
tinguished and readily removed. The Man- 
etti suckers nearly always push up outside 
of the plant and are covered with minute 
prickly spines. Suckers of the brier stock 
bear seven serrated leaves instead of the usual 
number of five, and so are easily identified. 
If a shoot is suspected of being wild, positive 
proof is easy to get. Remove the earth care- 
fully, and follow the shoot down to the point 
of union with the rest of the plant; if this is 
below the bud, the shoot is a sucker and must 
be removed. Cut it off close and rub the 
wound with a little moist earth. Perhaps 
1 per cent, of the roses in a well-cared-for 
garden will push out wild wood in a year, 
but in a badly tended garden a much greater 
proportion will appear — the result of too 



i6 



ROSES 



shallow planting. This is probably the only 
valid objection that can be urged against 
budded roses. 

The most experienced amateurs, as exem- 
plified by Dr. Huey, put their faith in budded 
roses, in whose favour much can be said. 
They are much more vigorous, produce finer 
blooms, come into bearing sooner, and last 
just as long, if not longer. Budded roses 
give a fair amount of bloom the first season 
after planting, and each subsequent year 
adds to their vigour and beauty. Dr. Huey 
in 1887 made a bed of budded roses, and 
eighteen years after he reported in Country 
Life in America (March, 1905) that four had 
died, the others being still vigorous and 
healthy, although the soil had not been 
changed. Adjoining this bed, twenty-four 
strong own-root plants of Ulrich Brunner 
were planted ten years later, and at the time 
of the report, nine of them had died, while of 
the twelve budded Brunners immediately 
adjacent all were still flourishing. From 
this it is reasonable to infer that budded roses 
are at least as hardy as those grown on their 
own roots. 

It must be admitted, however, that some 



WHEN, WHERE AND HOW TO PLANT 1 7 



of the stronger-growing varieties do very 
well on their own roots, notably Ulrich Brun- 
ner, Magna Charta and Caroline Testout, 
but many fine varieties are utterly worthless 
unless budded, such as Viscountess Folkes- 
stone and Reine Marie Henriette. 

There is a question as to which stock is 
most suited to our hot, dry climate. So far 
the Manetti has proven the best for most 
varieties, and the Messrs. Dickson bud most 
of their plants for export to America on this 
stock. 

The English growers favour the brier, and 
the great majority of roses budded in England 
are grown on this stock. This is quite right 
and proper for the moist, temperate English 
climate, but not so suitable for ours. It is 
very probable that the best stock for our use 
has not yet been introduced, and equally 
probable that when found it will be a seedling 
of Crimson Rambler. The hardiness and 
great vigour of this variety, which does well 
almost everywhere, commend it highly. 

The budded plants grown in Europe are 
taken up as soon as the wood is ripened in the 
autumn and shipped to us in the dormant 
state in time for planting before the ground 



i8 



ROSES 



is frozen. They are usually received in such 
excellent condition that rarely one in a hun- 
dred of the hardy sorts fails to make good 
growth and a fair bloom in the following 
season. 

PLANTING BUDDED ROSES 

Before planting, each plant should be 
examined, all broken roots cut off cleanly 
with a sharp knife, and all eyes that can be 
detected on the stock — i. e., the portion below 
the bud — should be removed. If this is not 
done, the eyes will push out and suckers will 
develop from them. One difference in ap- 
pearance between a sucker and a root is this: 
the sucker swells the farther it is from the 
stem, and the root tapers the farther it is from 
the stem. 

A hole large enough to accommodate all 
its roots without crowding should be made 
for each plant. The collar or point where 
the bud was inserted and from which the new 
growth starts should be placed not less than 
two inches nor more than three inches below 
the surface of the soil, the roots spread out 
carefully, nearly horizontally, but inclining 
downward, taking care that no two roots 



WHEN, WHERE AND HOW TO PLANT 19 



cross each other on the same level. If two 
have grown so that one must lie above the 
other, the earth must be carefully packed 
between; all the roots having been covered 
with fine soil free from fresh manure, the hole 
should be almost filled up and the soil firmly 
packed. This is very important, and the 
foot of a man of ordinary weight is not too 
heavy to accomplish the work well. Water 
the roots freely, and when the water is ab- 
sorbed fill up to the bed level, and see that 
the union of the stock is where it belongs, 
two inches below the surface. 

When all the plants have been placed, level 
the surface with a rake, cover with a top- 
dressing of about three inches of rough 
manure, and if planting is done in autumn, 
cut the long wood back to about one foot to 
prevent the plant being whipped and loosened 
by high winds. This extra wood is left to 
encourage root action, and should be cut 
back to two or three eyes as soon as the 
dormant eyes begin to show in the spring. 

PLANTING ROSES FROM POTS 

Several American dealers start a large 
number of imported budded plants in pots 



20 



ROSES 



for sale in the spring, thus obviating with the 
tender varieties the damage of winter killing. 

An objection to this is the crowding of the 
large roots that cannot be spread out in plant- 
ing without endangering the life of the plant, 
but good plants may be obtained in this way, 
although the bloom is not so fine nor the 
growth so strong during the first year. In 
setting out pot-grown plants, either budded 
or on their own roots, it is important to get 
them into the beds as soon as all danger of 
severe frost is over, in order that the plants 
may be firmly established before the heat of 
summer. Roses planted late in the season 
never do well, as they cannot attain sufficient 
vigour to withstand the burning heat of our 
summer sun. 

The holes need only be made a little larger 
than the pot in which the plant is grow- 
ing. Choose a cloudy day, in the afternoon, 
and after making the hole, knock the pot 
off by inverting the plant and striking the 
edge sharply on a firm substance. The 
handle of a spade, which has been fixed in 
the ground in an upright position, will answer 
the purpose. Fill the hole with water, press 
the ball of earth between the hands to loosen 



WHEN, WHERE AND HOW TO PLANT 21 



the particles, and insert to the required 
depth, budded plants as previously directed, 
and own-root plants about half an inch deeper 
than when in the pot. Fill in with soil and 
pack the earth around firmly. Pot-grown 
plants will require staking if the varieties are 
of upright growth. 



CHAPTER II 



The Routine of Work 

Cultivation in spring — Suckers and how to know them — 
Feeding — How to cut — Advantages of disbudding — 
The summer mulch — Making snug for winter — Fer- 
tilisers and manure — Propagation. 

The beds once properly made and planted, 
constant and regular cultivation is the se- 
cret of successful rose culture. Just before 
growth begins in the spring (about April 15th 
in New York), the surplus rough manure 
should be removed from the beds, and all the 
remaining fine particles forked in. Deep 
cultivation is not desirable, as the roots are 
likely to be injured or broken. Three inches 
in depth is quite sufficient to cultivate a bed 
that has not been trampled upon. Use a 
four-tine digging fork, as it is less apt to cause 
injury than a spade. The beds should then 
be edged and raked. 

Throughout the entire season until the 
middle of July frequent stirring of the sur- 

22 



THE ROUTINE OF WORK 



23 



face with a hoe and a sharp steel rake is abso- 
lutely necessary for all the rose beds. The 
soil should never be permitted to become 
baked. After a hard rain, when the surface 
has been beaten down, it should be loosened 
as soon as it is dry enough to work, and should 
be kept loosened. This is one of the most 
important points in the cultivation of the rose. 



SUCKERS 

During this cultivation, and at all con- 
venient times, keep a sharp lookout for 
suckers, which are growths shooting up from 
the roots from below the graft. Where the 
rose is budded on the brier, as is usually the 
case, the difference of foliage is so marked 
as to attract attention at once, the brier having 
very light green and small leaves as compared 
to the rose leaf, and also a gross reddish-white 
stem when young. The brier leaf has seven 
leaflets instead of only five as the garden roses 
have. The suckers should be carefully broken 
off at their point of junction with the root, if 
this can be done without disturbing the plant. 
Otherwise they should be cut off as low in the 
ground as the shears will reach. If this detail 



24 



ROSES 



is neglected, the result may be a choice crop 
of briers with corresponding shyness of rose 
bloom. Manetti stock is more difficult to 
detect, as it resembles the rose in leaf. It 
should not be used as a stock for out-of-door 
plants. 

LIQUID MANURE 

As soon as the flower buds begin to form, 
about half a gallon of weak liquid manure 
should be poured around each plant weekly 
as long as the plant continues to bloom. A 
good time to apply this is just before a rain, 
as it will thus be washed down to the tender, 
feeding roots and eagerly appropriated. The 
liquid manure should not be too strong. 
"Weak and often" is the gardener's motto. 
Half a bushel of cow manure to a barrel of 
water is about the proper strength. The 
liquids collected from the barn and stable, 
diluted to the colour of ale, may be used in 
the same quantities. 

Frequent syringing with clean water, or 
spraying with a hose, when that is accessible, 
will do much to keep the leaves in a healthy 
condition. This is especially necessary near 
a large city, a factory, or a railway where soft 



THE ROUTINE OF WORK 



25 



coal is burned. The floating particles lodging 
on the leaves fill up the pores, which are the 
lungs of the plant, and unless the foliage is 
kept clean the plant will speedily sicken and 
the leaves drop prematurely. In extreme 
cases in towns it is necessary to sponge the 
leaves in order to open the pores, but frequent 
syringing under ordinary circumstances will 
be sufficient. The frequent showering with 
water will also keep insect pests in check, 
especially aphis and red spider. 



CUT THE FLOWERS FOR MORE BLOOM 

When the roses are in bloom, be generous 
to your friends. Cut as many as possible 
each day. On the plant they soon attain their 
full development and fall away. They en- 
dure longer when cut and put into water 
indoors. Cut in the early morning before the 
flowers are fully open. It is better for the 
plant to have the flowers picked as freely as 
possible, and with as long stems as the growth 
will permit, merely observing the precaution 
of leaving an outward-growing eye, or per- 
haps two for safety, on the stem below the cut. 

Where it has been found impossible to pick 



26 



ROSES 



all the roses for use, then the plants should be 
gone over daily and all faded flowers removed 
to a point at least two eyes below the flowers. 
A regular practice of this precaution is the 
only means of insuring some autumnal bloom 
from the Hybrid Perpetuals. 

DISBUDDING 

For large flowers disbud freely on all free 
bloomers and a very much finer effect will be 
obtained than in the effort to mature all that 
are formed. 

Some varieties form large clusters of buds 
at the terminal point of the leading shoots, and 
if all these buds are allowed to remain the 
vigour of the plant is distributed among the 
group, so that the best results cannot be 
obtained unless one is striving for general 
effect. If fine single specimens are desired, 
the best bud only should be retained and all 
the others removed as soon as they can be 
pinched oft. The centre bud is usually the 
strongest, but as it may possibly be mal- 
formed, the most promising bud should be 
selected. Rodocanachi, Prince Camille, La 
France, Magna Charta, Rosslyn, Clio, Jubilee, 



KILLED BY A SUCKER 



Beginners either do not know or neglect the fact that 
almost all their roses are budded. Their choice varieties are 
overgrown or killed like this 



THE ROUTINE OF WORK 



27 



and Madame Isaac Pereire have this ten- 
dency markedly developed. 

In the case of the multiflora and polyantha 
roses — all the cluster roses, indeed, including 
the Noisettes — the object to be attained is 
quantity of bloom rather than the large 
development of individuals, so disbudding is 
not advocated in those cases. Everything 
depends upon the desire of the gardener. 

WHY AND HOW TO MULCH 

When the great heats are on and after the 
last cultivation has been given, apply a liberal 
mulch of cow manure, or well-spent stable 
manure. The object is not to enrich the soil, 
but to retain the moisture. Generally this 
will suffice until autumn, but in some situa- 
tions it may be necessary to water in spite 
of this assistance. Remove the surplus mulch 
in autumn before putting on the winter pro- 
tection, so that the level of the beds may not 
be raised too high. 

WINTER PROTECTION 

With the exception of the Hybrid Per- 
petuals, Rugosas, Hybrid Polyanthas (Ram- 



28 



ROSES 



biers) and Wichuraianas, roses are benefited 
by protection in the East, and most of them 
require it. 

The amount of protection being varied 
according to the severity of the climate. 
Dr. Huey, at Philadelphia, advocates a three- 
inch covering of rough manure over the entire 
bed as sufficient for all except the tender 
Teas, but farther west and north warmer 
bed-clothing must be provided. A neat and 
effective way for the latter is to surround the 
beds with a temporary fence of twelve-inch 
chicken wire filled with leaves. These are 
easily obtainable and are often troublesome 
to dispose of otherwise. Evergreen boughs 
make a fair covering, but they are difficult to 
obtain in quantity. Corn stalks are fre- 
quently used. Leaves, however, answer the 
purpose admirably, and a better or more 
natural covering it is difficult to get. They 
can go into the compost heap in the spring 
and become a valuable addition to any new 
beds later. 

Commander Ward, on Long Island, pre- 
pares his roses for winter thus : By November 
15th all roses, including the hardy ones, are 
to be given a liberal coating of well-rotted 



BUDDED LOW 

Naturally the strong-growing stock sends up many suckers 
which must be removed at once. Watch for this daily 



THE ROUTINE OF WORK 



29 



manure around the base of the plant, forming 
a cone about ten inches high. All shoots of 
tender climbers relied upon for next year's 
bearing are carefully bent down and buried, 
with or without a salt-hay protection over the 
earth, according to the degree of hardiness. 
All beds except those of hardy roses are then 
covered after the first hard frost with a coating 
of dried leaves, at least twenty inches in thick- 
ness, held in place by wisps of salt hay or 
straw, the holding-down material not to be 
too heavy. The covering should be com- 
pleted usually by Thanksgiving Day, but of 
course the final application of leaves will 
depend upon the actual date of the first good 
frost. Do not cover too soon, nor with 
leaves which are wet and soggy or half 
rotted. In the spring remove the covering 
gradually, none of it as a rule before April 
1st, and some should remain until at least 
April 20th, to guard against late frosts. 
What remains of the manure may be forked 
in, being careful, however, not to get the rose 
stems buried beyond the proper depth. 

In still colder regions it becomes necessary 
to protect even the Hybrid Perpetuals. When 
this is necessary there is no real pleasure to 



3° 



ROSES 



be had from planting the Teas. One success- 
ful amateur in the southern part of Ontario 
adopts this method for the Hybrids: 

Four or five layers of leaves are placed on 
the rose bed and close around the bushes after 
severe frost in the autumn, rather to prevent 
too rapid thawing in the spring than as pro- 
tection against the winter's cold. 

Standards, which are not often grown, need 
much more tender care than the ordinary 
low-budded plants of the same varieties. In 
Elizabeth Park, Hartford, Conn., where is 
the finest public rose garden of the East, they 
are dug up bodily each fall and buried in a 
straw- or hay-lined trench and covered with 
a foot or so of soil. In this way complete 
success has been achieved under very trying 
climatic conditions. Pillar roses can be win- 
tered by being mulched and the whole top, 
support and all, wrapped in mats, hay, burlap 
or other convenient material. 



FERTILISERS 

The rose is a strong feeder and must not 
be neglected. Each year the beds should 
receive a dressing of manure. Indeed ani- 



THE ROUTINE OF WORK 



31 



mal manure, from one to two years old, is, 
where it can be obtained, the most desirable 
of foods for the rose beds. Cow manure is 
generally preferred, as it can be used most 
liberally without any danger from burning. 
Horse manure, when new, is very heating and 
should not be used while in this condition 
except as a winter mulch. Hog, sheep and 
chicken manures are also very useful. The 
last two should, however, be used sparingly. 

Of the commercial fertilisers, ground bone 
is the most useful. This may be obtained 
in several degrees of fineness and is often 
given in a mixture of grades — fine bone meal, 
medium ground bone and coarse crushed 
bone in equal parts. This may be used 
separately or to supplement animal manures. 
After the beds are well dug, scatter the bone 
on the surface until the ground is nearly 
covered; then, with the use of a fork, it can 
be quickly and thoroughly mixed into the 
already fined soil. 

Nitrate of soda is one of the very best fer- 
tilising agents we can employ if it is given 
early in the season, and supplemented by 
bone later. It should be scattered thinly 
(say, about a tablespoonful to a plant) on the 



32 



ROSES 



surface of the beds about every five or six 
weeks during the growing season. 

Dr. A. B. Griffiths recommended, in his 
" Special Manures for Garden Crops/' a 
chemical manure composed of one-half ounce 
of superphosphate of lime, and one-quarter 
ounce each of iron sulphate and sulphate of 
ammonia. These quantities were to be put 
into two gallons of water, and the liquid 
applied to the roots without wetting the 
foliage. In "The Book of the Rose" (third 
edition), the Rev. A. Foster-Melliar states that 
sulphate of iron is said to give a better colour 
to the foliage, and in some sorts, such as Anna 
Olivier, to the blooms as well, but he does 
not place much reliance upon this. He recom- 
mends the following mixture, as prescribed 
by Mr. Tonks upon the result of analysis of 
the ash left from the burning of rose plants: 



Superphosphate of lime 12 parts 

Nitrate of potash 10 

Sulphate of magnesia 2 

Sulphate of iron I 

Sulphate of lime 8 



33 

This mixture should be applied in March 
and scattered over the previously hoed surface 



BUDDED HIGH 



Most desirable garden roses are weak growers, 
therefore usually budded on a strong-growing 



THE ROUTINE OF WORK 



33 



of the bed at the rate of one-quarter pound 
to the square yard. A second and lighter 
dressing may be applied at the end of May if 
heavy rains have occurred. 

PROPAGATION 

Many methods are employed in propagat- 
ing roses, but the practice here described 
commends itself to the amateur because it is 
simple and effective. Cuttings can be rooted 
in the garden or in the greenhouse. For out- 
of-door work they should be made in Novem- 
ber, before severe frost, of wood of the current 
year's growth. They should be cut into 
lengths of six inches, tied into bundles with 
tarred rope and buried in sandy soil, eighteen 
inches deep, and furthermore protected from 
freezing by a covering of leaves. In spring, 
when the ground is thawed and settled, they 
should be planted in V-shaped trenches in 
well-prepared beds, using a little rotted barn- 
yard manure. The cuttings should stand 
nearly erect and be so deeply planted that 
only one bud shows above the surface of the 
ground, two inches apart in the row, with the 
rows twelve inches apart. In this way many 



34 



ROSES 



desirable hardy roses can be multiplied, e. g., 
Crimson and Yellow Ramblers, the Dawson 
Rose, Rosa multiflora, R. Wichuraiana and 
all their other progeny, R. setigera, Prairie 
Queen and Baltimore Belle, etc., also the 
Manetti Rose for stocks upon which the 
Hybrid Perpetuals can be budded; but for 
the amateur it is best to buy the plants. 

When they are grown under glass these 
same varieties will give a larger percentage of 
rooted plants, if the cuttings are made two or 
three inches long, planted in pure sand, in 
pots or boxes, and kept in a greenhouse, in a 
temperature of 45 F. These cuttings, also, 
should be made in autumn, before severe 
weather, of wood just completing its growth. 
They should be planted thicklv, about one- 
half their length deep, and well shaded for 
three weeks. Keep the temperature so low 
that the buds will not start into growth before 
a callus is formed or the cutting is rooted. 
The young plants can be set out in May or 
early June, either directly from the cutting bed 
or after having been established in pots. 



HOW TO PLANT AND PRUNE 
A dormant budded Caroline Testout on Manetti stock. A — 
Point where bud was inserted. B — Surface of ground, showing 
how deep to plant. C — About where plant should be cut 
back in spring. Always cut above a bud pointing outwards 



CHAPTER III 



Pruning 

Treatment of newly planted stock — Spring the best time 
for the work — How to prune — The ideal in view — 
Quantity or quality — Where to cut — The winter as an 
ally — What not to prune — Autumn pruning — Pruning 
rules for all classes. 

When roses are planted in the autumn, 
prune them as little as possible. All pruning 
is best postponed until after February. 
Sometimes, however, non-climbing roses will 
shoot up at the end of the season in pithy, 
worthless stalks or weak streamers, whose 
swaying in the high winds is likely to be 
injurious to the plants by disturbing the roots. 
Such pithy shoots should be cut out altogether 
and the streamers topped off. 

The pruning of the hardy roses, climbers 
and non-climbing, should be completed by 
the middle of March. Tender roses may be 
pruned in early April; the object is to keep 
the covering undisturbed as long as possible, 

35 



36 



ROSES 



but to avoid waiting until the sap is running 
freely. A revision of the pruning will have 
to take place by May 1st anyhow, but it 
should be limited to what is indispensable. 




A Crimson Rambler Rose is best pruned by removing the old canes 
entirely and shortening others if necessary. 

Prune back recently planted roses rather 
vigorously. Protect all severe cuts with tree 
wax. 

The degree of pruning each grower must 
decide for himself. If the largest individual 



PRUNING 



37 



flowers are sought the pruning can hardly 
be too severe; but for ordinary garden pur- 
poses a moderate cutting will be better. 

The stronger the growth of the rose, the 
less it should be pruned; many such roses, 
if too severely cut back, will run to wood 
(Margaret Dickson) or die out altogether 
(Gloire Lyonnaise) . 

In pruning, cut out all 
the dead wood and weak- 
est shoots first. Where 
two limbs make a bad 
cross and are liable to 
chafe, remove one of 
them, remembering to 
keep the centre of the 
plant as clear as possible 
to admit the circulation 
of air. Now consider 
what you have left and 
what you want: if but 
few roses of surpassing size, then prune a 
vigorous plant to three or four eyes on the 
shoot; if you want quantity, leave six eyes, 
or even more. If the effect of large masses 
is wanted, four or five canes may be retained 
three feet in length, and all very old or weak 




The same plant of Crimson 
Rambler, pruned, to be 
grown as a bush. 



38 



ROSES 



growth should be entirely removed. This 
will give a large number of flowers effective 
in the mass, but small, and with short, weak 
foot-stalks, scarcely able to support the weight 
of the blooms and not effective as cut flowers. 
This sort of pruning is entirely for outside 
show. After the bloom is over the canes 
should be shortened back at least one-half 
so that the plant may make strong w T ood for 
the next season of bloom. Plants pruned in 
this way require strong stakes. 

If quality is desired, all weak growth 
should be removed and every healthy cane 
retained and cut back in proportion to the 
development of each plant. The weakest 
should not have more than four inches of 
wood left on the root, while the strongest may 
have eight or nine inches. 

The canes should be cut off about a quarter 
of an inch above an outside bud, and care 
must be taken that the wood is not torn nor 
the bud bruised. The shoot growing from 
the uppermost bud will usually be strong, and 
will grow in whatever direction the bud 
points. Therefore the highest bud left should 
point toward the outside of the plant, that the 
head may be open and light and air admitted. 



PRUNING 



39 



Roses pruned in this way do not need 
stakes. They are sufficiently strong and 
stocky to hold erect any weight they may be 
called upon to bear. They will require very 
little summer pruning if the blooms have 
been cut, as eight to twelve inches of wood 
are removed with each flower. Of course, 
the number of blooms will be much reduced, 
but the quality of the fine specimens obtained 
will amply repay the lack of abundance. 

Pruning of Hybrid Teas and Teas may be 
profitably left until the first signs of life are 
discoverable, as evidenced by the bark becom- 
ing greener and the dormant buds beginning 
to swell. By that time any dead or dying 
wood can readily be detected, thus making it 
easier to select what should be removed and 
what retained. They do not need such 
severe pruning as that prescribed for the 
Hybrid Perpetuals; twice the amount of 
wood may safely be left if it is promising. 

Bourbon Roses, as Malmaison and Mrs. 
Paul, require very little pruning. If the 
weak wood is removed and the strong shoots 
shortened a few inches the best results will be 
obtained. This class will not bloom on the 
new wood. 



4 o 



ROSES 



In pruning the weak-growing varieties, it 
will generally be found that the winter has 
done most of the work already, leaving but 
little to choose from. In this case prune to 

the very soil, if neces- 
sary, to get to sound 
wood. If anything 
remains at all after 
this apparent de- 
struction, these 
same plants will be 
found to bear pro- 
fusely before the 
season is over. 

Rugosas, climbers 
and pillar roses 
should be pruned 
as little as possible, 
merely removing the 
old wood past bear- 
ing, cutting out dead 
wood and trimming 
back the ends of the 
remaining shoots slightly, after training them. 
It may be stated here that in training all 
climbers, you must avoid straight-up training, 
or the sap will all tend to the top, denuding 




Hybrid Perpetual Rose before 
pruning. (General Jacqueminot) 



PRUNING 



41 



the lower part of the plant. First bend the 
shoot in one direction or another, then let it 
tend upward if necessary. If a climber has 
developed more shoots than it appears able to 
support, the weakest may be removed, remem- 
bering that in most cases the bloom of any 
one year is best on the last year's shoots. 



AUTUMN PRUNING 



Before the high winds of November begin, 
the bushy tops of all canes in the dwarf- 
growing varieties should be removed unless 
they are securely tied to stakes. This is to 
prevent the plants from being whipped by 
the wind and the tender feeding roots from 
being broken. It is 
better to leave the 
canes about two feet 
in length. The 
plant should not be 
cut back to the point 
suggested for spring 



pruning, 



fo 



r a 



few 




The same bush after pruning. 



hot days will force 
out the uppermost eves, which later will be 
destroyed in the winter. Enough wood should 



42 



ROSES 



be left to insure the safety of the eyes that are 
retained for next season's flowers. 

RULES FOR PRUNING 

I. Hybrid Perpetuals, Hybrid Teas, Pro- 
vence and Moss Roses are best grown as bushy 
plants. They should be severely cut back 
while dormant in spring, but never in summer 
or early autumn, as is sometimes done be- 
cause they are straggling and look unkempt 
in an otherwise neat garden. From two- 
thirds to four-fifths of last year's wood, and 
all weak shoots, are removed. This results in 
strong growths, producing large flowers, the 
size of which can be increased by disbudding. 
If numerous smaller flowers are desired — 
i. e., quantity at the expense of quality — the 
shortening-in need not be carried so far. It 
is permissible to cut back only one-half, but 
this treatment is objectionable, and does not 
tend to keep the plants in good condition. 
This winter pruning should be supplemented 
by a summer pruning, which consists of 
simply cutting out the flowering shoots after 
the flowers fade. It is already done if all the 
blooms have been gathered. Remove weak 



Pruned in spring for quality of bloom. A Hybrid Perpetual 
rose. Twelve canes from six to eight inches long, each cut 
above an outside bud, giving an open centre to the bush 




The same bush eight months later. Showing that severe 
pruning does not check growth. Also how bushy tops should 
be cut back in autumn to prevent injury by the wind 



PRUNING 



43 



growths and all sprouts from the stock as 
they appear. As the plants age, worn-out 
stems must be taken out and the centre left 
open to encourage new shoots. Some of 
these roses are short-lived and must eventually 
be replaced. Hybrid Perpetual Roses of 
weak habit — e. g., Prince Camille de Rohan 
— should be cut back harder than vigorous 
growers like General Jacqueminot, but only 
when in good health. Hybrid Teas, as a 
rule, require the most severe pruning; Moss 
and Provence Roses the least. 

2. Climbing Roses — the Dawson, Baltimore 
Belle, Prairie Queen, Crimson Rambler and 
others — need not be pruned so hard as those 
above described. Cut off in spring, before 
the buds open, from one-fifth to one-third of 
the previous year's growth; also, in estab- 
lished plants, any of the old, flowering wood 
which is enfeebled. Do not hesitate, even 
if a part of the trellis is laid bare. It is by 
this means only that these plants can be kept 
vigorous. In summer take out most of the 
old wood after it has finished flowering and 
train new growths as desired, pinching out 
weak and objectionable shoots. 

Half-Climbing Roses, like the Japanese Rosa 



44 



ROSES 



multiflora (R. polyantha) and its varieties, 
the Sweetbriers, R. setigera, the type, and the 
Dog Rose, are commonly grown as bushes and 
pruned as above described, more attention 
being paid to cutting out worn-out stems and 
keeping the centres open; but the flowering 
wood must not be removed after blooming 
where fruit is desired in winter. 

Trailing Roses (R. Wichuraiana and its 
varieties) require comparatively little pruning, 
particularly in the North, where unfavourable 
seasons are apt to kill some of the wood. By 
taking out dead branches and cutting back 
enough to restore the balance, opportunity is 
given for new growths which are essential 
to keep them in good condition. 

Half-climbing hybrids of this rose — e. g., 
Sweetheart, Debutante, etc., and the old 
Ayrshire Roses — R. arvensis (R. repens) and 
their varieties — are pruned in much the same 
way. 

The Briers — the Persian Yellow Rose, Han- 
son's Yellow, and Austrian Brier are not 
strong growers. One must be cautious with 
the knife, cutting out the flowering wood 
after the blooms fade. In established plants 
the worn-out stems can be removed at any 



PRUNING 



45 



time. Scotch Roses can be treated in the 
same way, and are much benefited by being 
cut clean to the ground once in about seven 
years. Their habit of spreading by under- 
ground stems helps the recovery. 

3. Wild Roses, R. blanda, Carolina, lucida, 
nitida, etc., are grown not only for the flowers, 
but for the bright twigs and hips, in winter. 
Consequently much depends upon sturdy 
growth. They are frequently planted in 
such quantity that careful pruning is impos- 
sible. Take out the older wood from time to 
time, and at intervals of several years, deter- 
mined by their condition, cut clean to the 
ground, at the same time give manure, and 
reset the plants, discarding the old and feeble. 
Rosa rugosa and its variety alba do not 
require annual pruning, unless it be a little 
shortening-in of the tips — an interminable 
operation. After these plants are well estab- 
lished, however, the older canes should be 
cut out occasionally, thus keeping the centre 
free and encouraging new growths. If at 
any time they are in bad shape from winter 
killing or disease, they can be cut to the 
ground. Hybrids of Rosa rugosa, like Mad- 
ame Bruant, are helped by spring pruning, 



46 



ROSES 



cutting back the annual growths, and thin- 
ning out old wood. 

4. Tender Roses, like the Teas, Chinas, Ben- 
gals, and Bourbons, should be cut in at the 
beginning of the flowering season, and, since 
they are really perpetual bloomers, this 
process must be continued as long as the 
season lasts. Weak and unproductive shoots 
must be removed. Cloth of Gold, Lamarque, 
Marechal Niel, and other roses of like habit 
are closely pruned after their wood is well 
ripened, when they are most at rest. Under 
glass, this is usually done just before starting 
them into growth. To bloom the Cherokee 
Rose in a cool greenhouse in January and 
February, four-fifths of the summer's growth 
must be cut away in October. Worn-out canes 
can be removed at any time. The double- 
flowered varieties of R. Banksia are severely 
cut back after the blooms have faded, in May 
or June in a cool house. 



CHAPTER IV 



Insects, Diseases and Spraying 

Only one really serious pest — Importance of general good 
health — Every-day remedies — Water and poisons — 
The scales — Fungus diseases worse under glass — No 
need for despair — When to spray. 

INSECTS 

Of all the ornamental garden plants, the 
rose bush usually suffers the most from insect 
pests, although well-grown, healthy roses in 
the open air suffer little, except from the rose 
bug or beetle, the most formidable enemy 
of all. 

Rose beetle. This is very destructive if 
allowed to increase. Daily inspection is nec- 
essary whenever it appears. The beetles are 
oftenest found buried in the heart of the 
choicest light-coloured flowers, and are most 
numerous on sandy soils. Hand picking in 
the early morning is the only remedy, and a 
small vessel half filled with kerosene is a safe 
and convenient receptacle. Paris green at 

47 



48 ROSES 

the rate of one pound to two hundred gallons 
will kill the beetle, but it also injures the 
foliage. The application of arsenate of lead, 
five pounds to fifty gallons of water, is recom- 
mended. 

Rose slugs are usually found on the under 
side of the leaves and may be detected 
by the skeletonised appearance of the leaf. 
These small, green, slug-like worms are the 
larvae of a small black saw-fly, which may 
be seen busily at work in early June thrusting 
its egg into the leaves. A second brood of 
the slugs works in August. They are oftenest 
found on plants grown in frequented places, 
such as a porch, where the birds will not 
remove them. A decoction made of two 
tablespoonsful of powdered white hellebore 
to four gallons of boiling water, applied when 
cool with a whisk-broom, so that the under 
surface is thoroughly wetted, proves most 
effective. One thorough application w T i!l 
usually suffice, but if the slug has appeared 
in given places during previous years, an- 
ticipate his coming and apply the hellebore 
solution before the expected arrival, or, since 
it is a chewing insect, a Paris green spray can 
be used. 



/ 



INSECTS, DISEASES AND SPRAYING 49 



Aphis, or green fly, is the most common 
pest that the the rose grower has to contend 
with. Vigilance is the best remedy. The 
fly should be attacked just as soon as it 
appears, as the increase is on a scale of mar- 
vellous rapidity. The finger and thumb are 
excellent for the early attack. At that time 
a plant may be cleansed in a few minutes, 
but it should be at once sprinkled with 
tobacco water in which a small portion of 
whale-oil soap has been dissolved. 

Leaf hopper. Beginning early in June 
and continuing throughout the season, the 
leaf hoppers appear. These pests are a con- 
stant menace. When the upper surfaces of 
the green leaves show minute yellow blotches, 
a glance on the under sides will reveal the 
culprits, and when the bush is jarred, they 
jump or fly off in large numbers. They are 
minute, active, light-yellow leaf hoppers, or 
the misnamed "thrips" of the rose grower. 
Most of their life is spent on the under sides 
of the rose leaves. They suck their food 
from the inside of the leaves, often seriously 
weakening the plant. 

The plant lice and leaf hoppers are sucking 
insects and must be suffocated with insect 



50 



ROSES 



powder or tobacco dust, or they must be hit 
with an oil, a soap, or a tobacco spray. 
Kerosene emulsion, a strong tobacco decoc- 
tion, or whale-oil soap (one pound in six to 
eight gallons of water), will kill all that are 
wet with the spray, but it is practically impos- 
sible to hit them all with one application, and 
they develop so rapidly that usually it is 
necessary to repeat the dose several times 
during the season. Either of these sprays 
will doubtless kill any slugs that may be at 
work at the same time. 

WATER AND POISONS AS REMEDIES 

If a strong water pressure is available, one 
can often master all of these serious enemies 
of the garden rose bush with the hose and 
a coarse spray nozzle, by simply knocking off 
the insects with a spray every few days. 

In trying poisons, remember that rose 
foliage is tender and may be injured by strong 
mixtures. 

Very common is the bark louse, which sur- 
vives the winter and is usually found on old 
wood. It can best be treated before growth 
begins in the spring and can be removed by 
scrubbing with a tooth-brush and a plentiful 



INSECTS, DISEASES AND SPRAYING 51 



supply of soap and water. Kerosene emul- 
sion is of course a proper remedy for this, too. 

The rose is just as likely as any other plant 
in the garden to be attacked by the San Jose 
scale, and must be treated similarly to other 
infected plants. The lime-sulphur-salt wash 
is found to be superior to all other remedies 
yet tried. An objection to this lies in the 
'whitewashed effect given to the plants, but 
the addition of lamp black to the mixture 
tones down the colour to a dark greenish 
grey, which in the garden is worth the little 
extra trouble involved. 

Sometimes curious half-circular pieces are 
cut out of rose leaves by the leaf-cutter bee, 
which deftly makes them into long tubes con- 
taining several cells in which its young are 
developed. 

DISEASES 

The rose is subject to a hundred or more 
fungous diseases, the majority of which, hap- 
pily, are not serious obstacles to the gardener. 
There are a few^, however, among the host 
which add to the troubles of the grower. 

The Black Spot is the most wide-spread and 
conspicuous of all the diseases. It was first 



5* 



ROSES 



described in 1826. This is an old enemy, and 
has long been known to the. rose growers in 
Europe. The foliage, when attacked, soon 
develops the characteristic black spots, and 
the leaves become elsewfiere pale, and shortly 
fall to the ground. As~a result, rose houses 
badly infested with the black spot show but 
few leaves and fewer blooms. The micro- 
scopic structure of this fungus has been fully 
considered, with plates, in the first annual 
report made by Professor Scribner as Chief 
of the Section 'of Vegetable Pathology of the 
United States Department of Agriculture, for 
the year 1887. This trouble may be held in 
check by the carbonate of copper compound, 
using five ounces of the carbonate of copper 
to three quarts of ammonia and sixty gallons 
of water. The spraying should be done once 
a week, using a hose with a nozzle that gives 
a fine spray. The point should be to wet 
every part of the plant, and yet not drench it. 
If many leaves have fallen from the plant they 
should be gathered up and burned. 

Some varieties are more liable to the black 
spot than others. When possible — that is, 
when all other things remain the same— it is, 
of course, wise to grow those least susceptible 



INSECTS, DISEASES AND SPRAYING 53 



to the disease. Dr. B. D. Halsted has seen 
the black spot upon a species of wild rose 
(Rosa humilis), where it was causing the 
leaves to become spotted and yellow. The 
wild plant was growing but a short distance 
from a neglected estate where garden roses 
were badly spotted. 

The Actinonema, the fungus causing the 
disease, belongs to a small genus, and some 
of the species are parasites upon the bass- 
wood, beach, ash, viburnum. The one upon 
the rose is not found upon plants outside of 
the genus Rosa, and there has its favourite 
species and varieties. This is shown in a 
remarkable manner with some of the cul- 
tivated sorts grown side by side in the same 
house. It is often very bad upon the Amer- 
ican Beauty. 

The Rose Leaf Blight disfigures and injures 
the rose leaves almost as badly as the black 
spot. A thoroughly diseased leaflet has 
large irregular blotches of grey colour sur- 
rounded by a margin of dark purple. The 
grey dead centre of the spot bears a number 
of pimples or specks — more numerous and 
conspicuous near the centre— and in these the 
spores are produced, It is closely related to 



54 



ROSES 



the leaf blight of the strawberry. It is impor- 
tant to know these relationships between 
the various plant diseases, for it is helpful in 
the struggle in overcoming them. The leaf 
blight of the strawberry is very much more 
common than that of the rose, and any 
effective remedy found for the former may be 
of value in checking the ravages of the latter. 
Fruit growers have found this strawberry 
leaf blight a hard one to check, perhaps 
because of its many forms of spores and the 
low habit of the plant and the consequent 
difficulty of readily spraying the foliage upon 
the under side. This difficulty does not obtain 
with the rose, and it may be controlled more 
easily. There is no question but that the 
standard fungicides should be used when 
this fungus is at work. 

The Rose Mildew. — The most familiar 
fungous enemy of the rose is the mildew 
(Sphaerotheca pannosa, Wallr.). This dis- 
ease has been known for a long time and is 
quickly recognised by the powdery coat it 
develops upon the affected parts. It is so 
rapid in its development that rose growers are 
sometimes inclined to assign the cause of the 
growth to that which is in reality only the 



INSECTS, DISEASES AND SPRAYING 55 



condition or conditions favouring the appear- 
ance of the mildew. It comes from spores, 
which falling upon the surface of the plant 
will quickly germinate and produce a cob- 
webby coating to the foliage. This fungus 
is so different from the others that have been 
mentioned, that a word is needed in way of 
explaining the habit of the parasite, as this lies 
at the foundation of the rational treatment of 
the pest. In the first place the rose mildew 
is a surface feeder and only attaches itself to 
the epidermis of the host, through which by 
means of small suckers it derives its nourish- 
ment from the deeper-seated substance. Being, 
therefore, entirely upon the surface, the fine 
threads of the fungus may grow rapidly and 
make a mildew patch in a very short time 
that is easily seen. The exact conditions that 
favour this development of the spores are 
pretty well known to rose growers. Some 
of them claim that they can develop the fun- 
gus at will, on plants under glass, by omitting 
some essential point in heating, watering or 
ventilation, particularly the last. If a certain 
current of air is sure to produce the mildew, 
it follows that the spores of the mildew were 
widely scattered through the house, and that 



56 



ROSES 



they started into vigorous growth at those 
places where the proper conditions were 
supplied. 

The superficial nature of the mildew is of 
great importance when the matter of remedies 
is considered. It is a fungus that is in the 
air, as it may be termed, in contrast with most 
of the rose diseases that when active are 
deeply seated in the plant. The spores are 
produced as minute delicate cells upon 
upright filaments that arise from the web 
of horizontal vegetative hyphae. They are 
easily reached by fungicides and apparently 
destroyed without difficulty. Any of the 
ordinary sprays will answer for the mildew, 
but even these need not be resorted to, pro- 
vided spraying is uncalled for by the presence 
of other rose fungi. In short, if the mildew 
is the only enemy at hand, it may be kept in 
check by the use of flowers of sulphur, either 
dusted upon the plants or even the pipes of 
the greenhouse, the point being to produce a 
gentle fumigation of the plants and the whole 
house with the fumes of the sulphur. Profes- 
sor Maynard, of the Massachusetts Experi- 
ment Station, finds that a small kerosene stove 
is most convenient for this purpose, and the 



INSECT, DISEASES AND SPRAYING 57 



sulphur, by means of it, is boiled in a kettle 
for two or three hours twice a week, the house 
being closed during the operation. The only 
precaution is to use no more heat than is 
sufficient to boil the sulphur, for should it 
catch fire it might damage the plants. Mr. 
John N. May writes that the best way to get 
rid of the mildew on roses under glass is to 
close the house about eight o'clock in the 
morning, run the temperature up to 75 , 
then, with a bellows, fill the house full of 
sulphur. Let the house remain closed till it 
reaches 85 or 90 , and afterward let air in 
gradually. A constant circulation of air is 
likewise recommended for roses at all times. 
Potassium sulphide, one ounce to two gallons 
of water, sprayed upon the plants has proved 
an effective remedy. Dr. Massee states that 
"flowers of sulphur mixed with about one- 
third of its volume of slaked lime dusted on 
the foliage prevents the spread of the disease." 
Gardeners, from long experience; have come 
to the belief that rose mildew is induced by 
a weak condition of the plant, resulting from 
partial starvation, irregular or excessive water- 
ing, and undue exposure to drafts of cold air. 
The best success in rose growing, as in all 



58 



ROSES 



other things, attends those who give constant, 
intelligent care to the many details. 

The mildews of the phlox and verbena 
have been effectually controlled by spraying 
with kerosene emulsion of the standard 
strength for insects. This mildew is so 
closely related to the one of the rose that 
similar results may be expected with the rose 
mildew. 

The Downy Mildew of the Rose. — A second 
form of mildew (Peronospora sparsa, Berk.) 
is sometimes troublesome to rose growers. 
This is a close relative of a similar one upon 
the greenhouse lettuce, and another is often 
destructive to spinach, while a third is the 
cause of a soft rot of potatoes. It produces 
downy or velvety patches upon the leaf, quite 
unlike the form above described, and the 
threads run through the substance of the 
leaf. In this case the fungus will have vege- 
tated for a considerable time before it appears 
upon the surface, which is entirely for the pur- 
pose of producing its multitude of spores 
borne upon the tips of the many aerial 
branches. 

It is evident that the sulphur fumes may 
cause the destruction of the spores, but may 



REINE MARIE HENRIETTE AS A TRELLIS ROSE 
Three hundred blooms three years from planting. An excellent way of using 
climbing roses. A climbing hybrid tea 



INSECTS, DISEASES AND SPRAYING 59 



not reach the parts that are within the sub- 
stance of the host. Such treatment, while 
tending to check the spread by means of the 
spores, will not be sufficient to arrest the 
growth of the fungus that is already in the 
tissue of the host. 

There is also a second form of spore that 
is produced beneath the skin of the leaf and 
out of reach of fungicides. As a precaution 
it is therefore well to destrov any mildewed 
leaves, or else when they fall the spores may 
be set free. 

The Rose Rust (Phragmidium subcorticum, 
Schr.) is a genuine rust similar to that of the 
wheat, oats and other grains. It is not com- 
mon upon indoor roses, but is sometimes and 
in some places a troublesome pest upon roses 
grown for ornament in the flower garden and 
lawn. It attacks more especially hardy 
hybrid varieties. All three forms of the fun- 
gus are produced on the same host. The 
aecidia appear in late spring on the leaves 
and young shoots, forming powdery orange 
patches, and often cause distortion of the 
shoots. About midsummer the patches be- 
come deeper in colour, owing to the formation 
of uredospores. Finally the resting spores 



6o 



ROSES 



are produced as minute black dots on the 
under surface of the leaves. 

The appearance of the disease in spring 
depends entirely on the presence of winter 
spores in the neighbourhood. It is therefore 
necessary to collect and burn all fallen leaves 
in the autumn. Plants that have been at- 
tacked the previous season should be thor- 
oughly drenched with a solution of sulphate 
of copper in water — two ounces in three 
gallons — in early spring before the buds 
expand. The soil around the plants may 
also be sprayed with the same solution. 
Diluted Bordeaux mixture, or ammoniated 
carbonate of copper solution, checks the 
aecidium and uredo stages. 

The fungus also grows on wild roses, and 
these may become a source of infection unless 
precautions are taken. 

When a shrub is badly infested there is 
little better to do than cut the whole plant 
away close to the ground. This fungus is 
closely related to (he one upon the blackberry 
and raspberry, causing the destructive rust 
of those plants. It has been shown that the 
fungous hyphae penetrate all parts of the 
blackberry plant, even the roots, and the rose 




STANDARD ROSES IN A FAMOUS GARDEN AT SARATOGA, N. Y. 
Standard roses are popular in England, but they do poorly in America, needing to 
be buried in a trench for winter protection. They are effective in the formal rose garden 
because they break the monotony of a uniformly low level 



INSECTS, DISEASES AND SPRAYING 6l 

grower may not find that severe pruning will 
rid a plant of the pest when it is thoroughly 
infested. Therefore, as with the raspberry 
rust, it may be necessary to root out and 
destroy the rose bush and start again with a 
healthy plant. This rose rust is a good illus- 
tration of the great depth to which a fungus 
will penetrate in the host and the difficulty 
of eradicating the same. It goes without 
saying that ordinary sprays will be of little 
curative effect upon a plant when the living 
vegetative threads of its fungous parasite 
penetrate to all parts. 

In California the rust upon roses is very 
much worse than it is in the East — sometimes 
every leaf upon a shrub is badly affected. In 
such a warm climate, when the plants retain 
their foliage throughout the year, the dark 
winter spores not being needed, are omitted 
in the life cycle of the fungus and the orange- 
coloured form of summer is perennial. 

The Rose Anthracnose is chiefly charac- 
terised by the scarcity of leaves. Instead of 
a plant with foliage upon all the canes there 
are but few leaves upon some stems, while 
others are entirely defoliated. The whole 
plant is infested with the fungus, and this 



62 



ROSES 



parasite so saps the vitality and interferes 
with the processes of growth that the leaves, 
even if they were healthy in themselves, are 
unable to perform their work. The fact is, 
that the leaves are infested with the anthrac- 
nose filaments, and soon after falling, if not 
before, they w^ill show the spore formation of 
the anthracnose fungus, Gloeosporium rosae. 
In general appearance and habits of growth, 
this fungus is quite similar to the one causing 
the anthracnose of the raspberry; possibly it 
is identical, and if so the presence of the one 
is a menace to the host of the other. 

The rose plant is most likely to be attacked 
while young, or at least it is to be presumed 
that the young portions of a plant are most 
susceptible. The attack is from without, 
and the spores falling upon the surface of the 
young, tender canes and leaves as well, there 
germinate and produce, in a short time, an 
affected spot. If this takes place in a cane, it 
is natural to suppose that the portion above 
the infested part will be girdled, in so far as 
the attack is great, and this will interfere with 
the direct support by the whole plant of the 
part beyond the diseased place. Besides 
this, the fungus spreads, and more rapidly, in 



INSECTS, DISEASES AND SPRAYING 63 



the direction toward the tip of the cane. It 
is not unusual for a diseased plant to send up 
apparently healthy shoots from near the base 
of the stem, but these become infested in turn. 

Roses whose foliage has a sickly colour, and 
whose leaves fall, especially from the tips of 
the canes, prematurely, may be suspected of 
being victims of the anthracnose. A hand 
lens should be sufficient to assist in finding 
pinkish blotches upon the leaves, particularly 
those that lie upon the moist earth beneath the 
half-defoliated plant. Similar, but better 
defined pimples usually occur upon some 
portion of the cane. 

The multitude of spores produced in pim- 
ples upon canes and fallen leaves, the ease 
with which they are transported by water, 
the rapidity of germination — all these factors 
combine to render this fungous enemy of the 
rose highly contagious. 

A coating of the Bordeaux mixture upon 
the leaves and stems prevents in large degree 
the entrance of the germs. All plants that 
are nearly leafless from this cause should be 
either cut down close to the soil or thrown 
bodily into the burn-heap. 

The Rose-Leaf Spot. — Somewhat similar 



64 



ROSES 



to the leaf blight previously mentioned but 
rarely met with is the leaf spot, due to the 
fungus Cercospora rosaecola. This produces 
spots that are of a grey colour with a dark pur- 
ple border, and the spores are long and borne 
in little tufts upon the surface of the central 
portion of the dead areas. 

As yet this leaf spot is not common, but 
when found at all is often quite destructive. 
As the spot fungus produces its spores on the 
outside of the plant, it is easily controlled by 
fungicides. 

Black Speck on Roses. — Closely associated 
with fungous diseases of the rose, and generally 
regarded as such is the black speck. Little 
round, black dots about the size of a pin's 
head are seen scattered irregularly on the 
(generally lower) surface of the leaves or on 
the stem, label or stake near the plant. 

This trouble is due to the indirect, and not 
the intentional action of a fungus, and in this 
respect is quite unusual and merits a word 
of consideration. The fungus that is the 
source of trouble is one of the moulds and 
grows upon organic substances and not upon 
the rose. 

It forms in large numbers upon the manure 




LORD PENZANCE HYBRID SWEETBRIERS 



Brenda on right, taken two years after planting. Two seasons later the plants are four 
times as large. Very desirable where there is plenty of space 



INSECTS, DISEASES AND SPRAYING 65 



used to cover the bed where roses are growing. 
As it matures a dark oval ball or sac is pro- 
duced filled wich spores. This black sac is 
supported upon a swollen stalk rising from 
the surface of the manure, and when ma- 
ture the enlarged portion, filled with liquid, 
suddenly forces off the spore sac and collapses, 
throwing the ball of spores into the air. These 
dark spore sacs are covered with moisture 
as they are discharged and will adhere 
to any object which they may strike in their 
flight. 

The height to which the dark sacs are 
thrown is fully ten feet; but there is a rapid 
falling off in the number upon any given 
area when the height of two or three feet is 
reached. 

These specks, of course, may be upon any 
plant that is within range; but they do no 
further harm than the disfigurement thereby 
produced. They are more often met with in 
rose houses, because there the manure is 
more frequently left upon the surface than 
with other kinds of plants. 

This extensive list of things which are pos- 
sible sources of trouble to the rose grower, 
should not be regarded entirely as a barri- 



66 



ROSES 



cade to frighten the prospective beginner. 
The diseases and the insects exist, and they 
may at one time or another make an assault 
on the rose garden or rose house. They are 
not among the essentials of rose culture, but a 
reasonable knowledge of how to identify the 
one or the other and how to advance against 
it is a great aid to success. As a rule, these 
pests thrive best when the cultural conditions 
under which the plants are growing are of the 
worst. It is not true that they are the 
creatures of neglect, but they are certainly the 
fruits of neglect. 

WHEN TO SPRAY THE GARDEN ROSES AND HOW 

Dates based on an average season in New 
York [Allow four days' difference for every 
hundred miles of latitude]. 

Use the insecticides and fungicides at the 
following strengths: 

Sulphide of potassium in a solution of one- 
half ounce to one gallon of water. 

Arsenate of lead, five pounds to fifty gallons 
of water. 

Whale-oil soap, one pound to eight gallons 
of water. 




A CLOSE VIEW OF THE ALTAI ROSE 



This excellent shrubbery rose has larger flowers and seems better adapted 
to our climate than the Scotch rose, of which it is a botanical variety. 
Flowers white, about two and a half inches across 



INSECTS, DISEASES AND SPRAYING 67 

Do not use any poisons unless they are 
really necessary. 

Mid-April. — Spray roses and neighbour- 
ing trees with Bordeaux mixture. 

Late April. — Just before leaves open. Whale- 
oil soap. 

May 10th. — Leaves open. Potassium sul- 
phide. 

May 17th. — Potassium sulphide. 
May 2 1 st. — Buds set. Whale-oil soap. 
May 24th. — Potassium sulphide. 
June 1st. — H.P.'s begin to bloom. Potassium 
sulphide. 

June 7th. — H.P.'s bloom in quantity. Arse- 
nate of lead. 

June 14th. — H.P.'s bloom in quantity. Ar- 
senate of lead. 

June2ist. — H.P.'s bloom in quantity. Whale- 
oil soap (last application). 

June 28th. — H.T. and T. in quantity. Arse- 
nate of lead. 

July 4th. — H.T. andT.; H.P.'s bloom ends. 
Arsenate of lead. 

July nth. — H.T. and T. in quantity. Whale- 
oil soap. 

July 1 8th. — H.T. and T. in quantity. Potas- 
sium sulphide. 



68 



ROSES 



July 25th. — H.T. and TVs bloom ends. 

Potassium sulphide solution. 
August 1st. — Potassium sulphide solution. 
August 8th. — Potassium sulphide solution. 
August 15th. — Potassium sulphide solution. 



CHAPTER V 



The Rosarian's Calendar 

The following calendar of work in the rose garden is 
based upon experience in the neighbourhood of New 
York City, and of course is subject to the usual variation 
of dates according to the distance north or south of New 
York. The vagaries of the season must also be taken 
into consideration. The dates given are relative, not 
absolute. 

March 15th. — Finish the pruning of hardy 
varieties already planted. 

March 25th. — Plant new hardy roses, prun- 
ing new plants rather more severely than 
those of the same varieties already estab- 
lished. 

April 15th. — Finish the pruning of tender 
varieties, as far as possible, without uncov- 
ering completely. Give to all the beds and 
to any neighbouring pear trees, grape vines, 
or other plants subject to fungoid troubles, 
a good spraying of Bordeaux mixture as a 
preventive. 

69 



7 o 



ROSES 



April 20th-25th. — Uncover tender varieties. 
Plant any new ones received, giving these 
slight protection of loose hay for a short 
time over the tops, and a rather severe 
pruning. 

End of April. — Roses generally in leaf. Give 
a preventive spraying of whale-oil soap. 
Final touches to pruning. 

May 20th. — Buds forming. Second spraying 
of whale-oil soap. 

May 25th, — Earliest roses bloom (Scotch 
followed by the Luteas). Apply liquid 
manure to H.P.'s. 

June 5th. — Hybrid Perpetual Roses in quan- 
tity. Watch for rose bug. 

June 10th. — Third spraying with whale-oil 
soap. Rose bug. Treatment as neces- 
sary. Apply liquid manure to H.T.'s 
and T.'s. 

June 20th. — Hybrid Teas and Teas in quan- 
tity. Watch for rose bug and for mildew; 
treat the latter with sulphide of potassium. 

July 1st. — Last spraying with whale-oil soap; 
Hybrid Perpetuals decreasing. 

July 10th. — Rose bugs disappear. Com- 
mence regular applications for black spot, 
if a wet season; sulphide of potassium 



THE ROSARIAN'S CALENDAR 



71 



every week, or dilute Bordeaux mixture 
every twenty-four days, this treatment 
depending wholly on weather and appear- 
ance of foliage, and lasting, if necessary, to 
August 20th. 
July 20th. — Hybrid Teas and Teas decreasing. 

Mulch beds by this date at the latest. 
August 30th. — Hybrid Teas and Teas, second 

bloom begins, lasting until frost. 
September 15th. — Second bloom of Hybrid 
Perpetuals begins, but usually it is not 
very plentiful- 
October 15th. — Prepare new beds for the 
next spring planting. Remove from old 
beds any of the mulch that cannot be 
forked in. 

November 15th. — Commence placing manure 
protection around roots, tenderest roses 
first. 

November 30th, or after a nip or two of 
decided frost, cover up tender roses for the 
winter. 



CHAPTER VI 
Roses for Cut Flowers Under Glass 

Its importance — The style of house — Even span and 
three-quarter span — Iron and wood frame — The cost 
— Benches or solid beds — The benches — Soil and 
manures — How to compost — Soil preferences — Filling 
the benches — Cleaning the benches — Lime and sul- 
phur wash — Planting — Watering- — Cultivation — Im- 
portance of ventilation — Avoid changes of tempera- 
ture — To prevent mildew — How to use sulphur — The 
cutical autumn period — The early firing — Tempera- 
ture — A combination of factors — Time from planting 
to flowers — Prune when cutting — Blind wood not of 
importance — Kinds that will grow together — Roses 
with carnations — Manuring and mulching — Manage- 
ment in spring — Professor Stuart's formula — Quan- 
tities of fertilisers to use — Carrying over — Treatment 
of new plants — Why buy from a dealer — Propagation — 
Select flowering wood — How to make a cutting — The 
sand for propagating — Soil for young plants — After 
the cuttings strike — Shifting into larger pots — Sum- 
mer plunging — Spring care — Flowering Tea Roses in 
pots — Hybrid Perpetuals in pots — All about growing 
American Beauty. 

The art of growing roses under glass has 
been brought to its highest perfection in 

72 



CUT FLOWERS UNDER GLASS 73 



America. The commercial importance of 
this one branch of the florist's trade is already 
enormous and the tendency is for its con- 
tinued increase. About 2,000,000 square 
feet of glass are used in the greenhouses 
devoted exclusively to the production of roses 
for the cut-flower market in one large "rose 
factory" area within twenty-three miles of 
New York City. Under this cover an army 
of 450 men is continuously at work, and fully 
$20,000 a year are paid for the carriage of the 
floral burden from the growing districts to the 
city market. These figures represent but one 
district — the most important one, it is true — 
but they should be doubled to be fairly rep- 
resentative of the united sources of supply 
for that one city. This will suffice to show 
the immensity of the demand for good roses. 
In these establishments the operations are 
carried out upon a gigantic scale, but in their 
details do not differ from what is necessary 
for the private grower who desires to raise 
roses under glass for home use. If it is 
intended to grow roses at all, it will be worth 
while to make one's plans to do the work 
thoroughly. A " cheap" greenhouse may be 
a continual source of worry and expense. 



74 



ROSES 



THE HOUSE 



A good house is essential. Without an 
adequate structure full success cannot be 
expected. But that statement need not deter 
anyone from making the attempt in a reason- 
ably well built and sufficiently lighted house 
where the heat can be had. The type of 
house most favoured for forcing roses was 
formerly what is known as the three-quarter 
span, in which one side of the roof was much 
wider than the other. Nowadays opinion is 
equally favourable to the even span. On a 
hillside the former style of house is to be 
preferred, as it possesses some structural 
advantages. The long slope of such a house 
is to be open to the south, so as to receive the 
greatest amount of sunlight. All houses of 
whatever pattern will, of course, be run east 
and west. On a hillside such a house does 
not have an excessively high wall on the north 
side which it has, of course, when built on the 
level. The three-quarter-span roof makes 
the house very high in the centre, as a regular 
pitch of seven and one-half inches to the foot 
is maintained. The even-span house, in 
which both sides of the roof are of the same 



CUT FLOWERS UNDER GLASS 



75 



size and the ridge is in the centre, is perhaps 
to be preferred, as it is cheaper to build and 
costs less for repairs. On a private place the 
advantages of the even span are still greater, 
because of the better adaptation of such a 
house to a variety of uses. Thus, if the 
owner is tired of growing roses, or has had no 
success, the house is well adapted for some 
other plant. 

Houses may be either of wood, or of wood 
and iron combined (which is to be preferred). 
This is sometimes referred to as iron or steel 
frame, with a wood veneer to act as a cushion 
for the glass. The iron house costs more, 
naturally, but it lasts longer. It costs less for 
repairs and admits more light, because its 
framework is more slender and casts smaller 
shadows. A house suitable for roses, even 
span, 25 x 50 feet, six-foot sides, iron frame, 
can be erected for about $2,200 without 
masonry work, but covering cost of erection, 
cement walks, iron frame benches with tile 
bottom and glazed with 16 x 24-inch double 
thick glass; also boiler and an adequate 
system of four-inch cast iron pipes to main- 
tain a temperature of 55 to 6o° in zero 
weather and a cellar about ten feet wide 



76 



ROSES 



across one end of the house. Such a house 
should have two lines of ventilators, at the 
ridge. If the house is to be built with a pos- 
sibility of growing other plants at any time, 
side ventilators may be provided also, to be 
used w^hen necessary. Certain fluctuating 
charges on account of freight, cartage, ex- 
penses of workmen, excavating and grading 
would have to be added to the figure quoted. 
The cost of these would vary according to 
local conditions and might reach a total of 
$700 more, and masonry work w T ould consume 
perhaps $1,000. Thus a sum of about $4,000 
should be figured upon as necessary to build 
a really first-class house of the most approved 
modern type for roses, including American 
Beauty, which requires more head-room and 
more heat than the other varieties commonly 
grown under glass. A house of the same 
size built of sash bar, all cypress wood, and 
without cement walks would cost about one- 
third less. An iron frame house 20x50 feet 
would cost about $1,900 for the superstructure 
and $900 for masonry, including the cellar. 
The height of the sides modifies the cost of 
the house very materially, but necessitates a 
greater expenditure to maintain the required 



CUT FLOWERS UNDER GLASS 



77 



degree of heat. In fact the problem of what 
house to use is to be looked at in the light of 
adjustment to circumstances. The greater 
the first cost, the less the after expense, and 
as in all other things, the best, in the long run, 
proves to be the cheapest. 

BENCHES OR SOLID BEDS ? 

As to whether benches or solid beds shall be 
adopted there is a wide division of opinion. 
The present-day trend is toward the latter, 
especially for American Beauty. The Hybrid 
Teas seem to flower more freely when planted 
in beds; on benches they exhibit a tendency 
to become dormant, and cease growth. Still, 
benches are in very common use and give 
abundant satisfaction, and in a private estab- 
lishment the raised benches are usually the 
more convenient to manage. Again, the 
heating pipes will be run under the bench and 
generally a neater appearance is presented. 
The bed is certainly the more durable, and if 
the plants are to be carried over for more than 
the one year there is much to be said in its 
favour. 

The benches should hold about four and a 



78 



ROSES 



half inches of soil and drainage may be pro- 
vided by having the bottom pieces one-half 
inch or even one inch apart. In solid beds 
drainage material — broken stone — is filled in 
for a space of fifteen inches and a soil depth 
of six or seven inches allowed. 



THE SOIL AND MANURE 

The rose likes a rich soil. It is of prime 
importance to have proper soil. Without it 
the finest house will fail to produce good 
roses, and with suitable soil one can get along 
very well indeed in a make-shift sort of a 
house. In many small places where it is not 
practicable to give up one house entirely to 
roses, it is nevertheless possible to attain a 
tolerable result by paying strict attention to 
the soil requirements. Much has been writ- 
ten about soil for roses. That in certain dis- 
tricts better roses are grown than elsewhere 
nearby is abundantly true. All places are 
not equally well suited to roses, and this local 
adaptation is generally thought to rest upon 
the soil rather more than upon the climate. 
It is important that the amateur bear this in 
mind. 



CUT FLOWERS UNDER GLASS 



79 



WHAT SOIL TO USE 

The soil should be procured in the autumn 
before the planting season, in August or Sep- 
tember, so that the winter may act upon it. 
By preference get soil from an old pasture 
that has not been cultivated for many years. 
A heavy loam from grass land that has been 
regularly grazed is the ideal basis of the com- 
post heap for roses. A good, tough sod full 
of roots is to be sought. It is not the grass 
tops which the rose grower seeks, but the 
fibrous mass of root below. Having the 
soil, stack it just before winter in proportion 
of three parts soil to one of cow manure, 
layer upon layer, in a mound of convenient 
height- — about five feet; it must not be too 
high nor too broad for the frost to penetrate. 
Let it remain here without any cover till 
spring. In this composting fresh manure 
can be used, but if the manure is added at the 
time the soil is chopped down in the spring, 
it must have been thoroughly rotted previ- 
ously. 

As soon as the weather in spring is "open" 
and the soil sufficiently dried out to be worked, 
the whole heap should be turned and allowed 



8o 



ROSES 



to remain fully a month, when it is turned 
once more. Use a spade in these operations. 
One month before the soil will be carried into 
the house it should have the final turning, 
when bone meal (one part to fifty) or other 
fertiliser, as may be desired, may be added. 

To a soil taken from a pasture yielding one 
ton of hay to the acre one-fourth of its bulk 
of manure may be added. Whereas a soil 
from a pasture cutting two tons to the acre 
will not need over one-eighth of its bulk of 
manure. At the last turning of the compost 
a dash of lime and bone meal may be given — 
but neither in large quantities. It will be 
better perhaps for the ordinary person to 
omit the lime — which is given only when 
there is an extra heavy soil — and apply the 
bone meal (or wood ashes) directly to the 
soil in the beds or benches as a top dressing 
before planting, at the rate of one bushel to a 
hundred-foot house of the standard width of 
twenty feet. Or figuring by weight, ten 
pounds each of bone meal and wood ashes, 
or bone meal and sheep manure, to two hun- 
dred square feet of glass, mixed with the soil 
in the bench or while turning outdoors, will 
be sufficient. Some growers add powdered 



CUT FLOWERS UNDER GLASS 



8l 



mica to modify a light and gritty or too sandy 
a soil. 

VARIETY PREFERENCES 

Different varieties of roses show prefer- 
ences for different soils, but a soil prepared 
as described above will be found to give the 
best results with a majority. A soil that is 
good for almost all varieties will, if taken and 
rubbed between thumb and finger, have a 
mellow, smooth feeling. Perle des Jardins, 
La France, Duchess of Albany and Niphetos 
succeed best on a lighter type of soil, while the 
Bride, Bridesmaid, Catherine Mermet, Mad- 
ame Hoste, Papa Gontier, Souvenir de Woot- 
ton and American Beauty require a heavy 
soil for their best development. It is obvious 
from this that the varieties to be grown should 
determine, in a measure at least, the nature 
of the soil to be used. It is generally con- 
ceded that roses grown on a clay soil produce 
blooms of better colour and substance than 
those grown on a lighter one. 

PLANTING THE HOUSE — WATERING 

Planting is done any time from the early 
part of May to the end of July. The aim 



$2 



ROSES 



should be to get all the roses housed by July 
ist, so that they can make a good growth 
during the rest of that month. Two weeks' 
growth then is worth twice as much in Octo- 
ber or November. 

The soil as previously prepared, by com- 
posting either in the autumn or spring, is 
brought into the house and put into the beds 
in benches which have been thoroughly 
cleaned. It is well to line the bottom of the 
bench with sod to hold in the soil, putting the 
grassy side downward. This is especially 
necessary when the boards of the bench are 
placed an inch apart, as is sometimes the case. 
Fill up the benches — three inches of soil is 
the proper depth for young roses — and apply 
such fertiliser as may be necessary, mixing it 
in thoroughly with the hands, at the same 
time picking out all stones and any other 
rough material. Finish it by leaving the 
surface of the bed rounded rather than level 
to allow for any subsequent settling. Don't 
pound the soil, and use a fork to break up 
any lumps if you like, but the most practical 
men use their hands as the levelling and 
finishing tool. 

The actual work of planting is easy enough. 



CUT FLOWERS UNDER GLASS 



83 



By means of a line mark off the beds so as to 
give the plants fifteen inches apart either 
way, at least. The young plants being in 
pots must be well watered a couple of hours 
before they are to be planted; they will then 
leave the pots readily and remain a solid 
ball. They must not be allowed to dry out 
at this time. Gently disengage the roots, 
place the plants in position no deeper than 
they were in the pots, and firm well by press- 
ure on each side with the closed fist. The 
larger plants should be placed in the back 
rows. An essential detail in the planting 
out from pots, whether it be a rose or any 
other plant, is that the ball as it comes from 
the pot be loosened and softened, being care- 
ful not to break the roots. The object in 
view is to get the soil of the ball and that of 
the bench properly united so as to be as 
nearly as possible of one texture. As soon as 
they are all planted give them a good water- 
ing and they will immediately begin to make 
new feeding fibres. This watering is given 
close around the plants individually rather 
than over the whole bed. And this object 
may be assisted by leaving a slight shallow 
around the plant. After this they should 



8 4 



ROSES 



never suffer for want of water, neither should 
they be saturated at any time. Syringing 
overhead two or three times a day on very 
hot days is very beneficial, and all air possible, 
top and sides, should be given, leaving an 
approach for air on top at night. This treat- 
ment will make a sturdy growth and solid 
wood, which enables the plants to go suc- 
cessfully through a winter forcing campaign. 

DISINFECTING THE BENCHES 

Preparatory to filling the benches with soil 
it is necessary to disinfect the whole house. 
Burn sulphur on a hot sunny afternoon, shut 
up the house tightly as soon as the sulphur is 
well lighted, and leave all snug until the next 
morning. The benches must then be washed 
and cleaned inside and outside, and be given 
a good coat of hot lime wash. This will 
destroy any insect or spores remaining in the 
bench. This wash is prepared as follows: 
To nine pounds of unslaked stone lime add 
two pounds of powdered sulphur, and water. 
Pour the water over the lime and, when it 
commences bubbling, pour in the sulphur 
and stir until the sulphur is dissolved; then 



CUT FLOWERS UNDER GLASS 



85 



put it on the bench hot. This sulphur in the 
bench will almost surely keep the roses free 
from mildew. This wash helps to preserve 
the wood of the benches and it kills any 
insects that may be lurking in crevices. A 
plain lime wash without sulphur may be used 
if desired. The whole of the house, walks, 
and under benches must be cleaned up and 
made tidy after the planting. 

If planting is done during July the plants 
have to stand the strain of the hottest part 
of the summer, and it is during their manage- 
ment at this period that the foundation of 
ultimate success or failure is laid. The rose 
likes a moderately warm, moist condition, 
which must be provided by the grower. 

WATERING „ 

From the day the young rose plants are 
put into the benches they must be watered 
frequently and systematically. Eight times 
a day is not too often during the most trying 
period of the summer. There are great dif- 
ferences of opinion on the subject of watering, 
and there are hardly two growers who treat 
their plants alike. In cloudy, rainy weather 
the most careful manipulation of ventilating 



86 



ROSES 



and watering, coupled with the best judg- 
ment, are necessary to maintain the vigour 
and the health of the plants. It is not then 
safe to syringe, but moisture can usually be 
provided by dampening the walks. 

One successful gardener on a private 
estate thus tells of his method of watering: 

''The first good syringing is given at about 
7 a. M., under rather than above the foliage, 
with the idea of removing any insect. The 
other six are given above the foliage, more 
to moisten the leaves and to stop too rapid 
evaporation from them. The point is this: 
Planted as they are under glass without 
shade, the evaporation through the foliage 
is more than the absorption by the roots. 
By this method I have found that the plants 
develop foliage more rapidly and of better 
substance, consequently are less susceptible 
to attacks of mildew/' 

Of course care must be exercised that the 
beds are not made over-wet by this treatment. 
If so much time as this needs is not easily 
to be given, the number of syringings may be 
reduced to two, but they must of necessity 
be heavier and the water must be given 
equally to the soil and to the foliage. It is 



CUT FLOWERS UNDER GLASS 87 



to be observed that in the case of the frequent 
syringings the water is kept from the soil 
as much as possible. The amateur is much 
more likely to err on the side of giving too 
little water than he is to make the mistake of 
giving too much. The vigour of the plants 
must be kept up. 

After the plants have been in the benches 
for two or three weeks they will be making 
a good growth and can be watered more 
freely. Keep the surface of the soil stirred 
and clear of weeds. But don't work too 
deeply — half an inch is enough. 

GENERAL CARE, VENTILATION AND 
TEMPERATURE 

From the time of planting, pay strict atten- 
tion to the ventilation. The rose house must 
be well equipped with apparatus so that the 
required conditions may be kept up easily. 
Open the entire system every day from early 
morning until after sunset, when the house 
should be half closed. Aim to keep the 
temperature inside one or two degrees lower 
than the outside air during warm weather. 
To do this means to balance very nicely the 
two factors of (i) watering overhead, and 



88 



ROSES 



damping down the house generally; (2) 
admission of air. With full air on and ordi- 
nary conditions the desired effect is main- 
tained by using the hose under the benches 
and on the walks. Above all things during 
the summer stage avoid letting the house 
get too warm. Sudden changes of temper- 
ature are most inimical and are sure pre- 
cursors of disease. Although it may not be 
safe to syringe during dull days, we must at 
the same time watch for red spider, applying 
the remedy — water — at once if discovered. 

MILDEW PREVENTION 

As a preventive of mildew (one of the 
worst enemies during summer and autumn), 
if sulphur was not used in the whitewashing 
of the benches and cannot be used on the 
pipes it may be put on sheets of tin suspended 
from the roof. This is easier and much 
cheaper and more cleanly than dusting. But 
the best preventive of mildew during summer 
is abundance of air applied with judgment. 
When sulphur is dusted on the plants they 
should not be syringed for two or three days, 
and the temperature during daytime in that 
period run up to 85 and 90 degrees. 



CUT FLOWERS UNDER GLASS 



8 9 



WHEN AUTUMN COMES 

The most critical time of all is as we ap- 
proach autumn, September and October. 
Changes in the atmosphere are then sudden 
and of great degree. The rose grower who 
has his house so piped that he can turn on a 
little — only a little — heat even during Sep- 
tember is often very glad of his foresight. 
Sometimes for this purpose a single pipe is 
carried overhead in the ridge, or one on each 
side of the house near the eaves. The night 
temperature at that time should not drop 
below 60 degrees; it will be better to keep 
it at 65 degrees. The cold nights are very 
treacherous to the rose grower and he must 
be prepared. As the weather gets colder 
the fire heat is gradually increased so as to 
maintain 56 to 58 degrees at night for Teas, 
and 58 to 62 degrees for Hybrid Teas, except 
Meteor, which requires 10 degrees higher 
both day and night. In the ordinary rose 
house a day temperature of 65 degrees is 
to be kept up. When the thermometer in- 
side shows one degree above the temperature 
outside open the ventilators on the side away 
from the wind and at the top one inch and 



9 o 



ROSES 



increase the amount of air as the heat inside 
rises. It is most important not to cause 
sudden changes. As a rule we have a good 
many bright days during September and 
October, with cool nights — ideal weather for 
rose growing. Put on plenty of ventilation 
then to harden the plants for the winter, and 
if the thermometer drops below 60 degrees at 
night, keep on a little fire and leave a " crack" 
open on the top ventilator, with the side 
ventilators closed. 

SEVERAL VARIETIES IN ONE HOUSE 

It is of course far better to have one kind 
of rose in one house — not necessarily one 
variety, but varieties so much alike that they 
accept similar treatment, as would be the 
case with The Bride and Bridesmaid, the 
two most popular roses for white and pink 
colours. This is not always possible on the 
private place, and a mixture becomes neces- 
sary; but try to reduce the number of varieties 
if the best results are sought. Much can be 
done in the heating arrangements to make the 
house suitable for mixed varieties by having 
one end cooler than the other. With 58 
degrees at the warm end and 53 degrees at the 



CUT FLOWERS UNDER GLASS 



9 1 



cool end in ordinary weather, dropping to 
55 and 50 degrees in zero weather or below, 
quite an assortment can be handled satis- 
factorily. 

A good selection for a private place for all 
purposes would be: The Bride, Bridesmaid, 
or Killarney, Perle des Jardins, and Souvenir 
de Wootton. Souvenir de Wootton is not 
equal to Meteor in colour, but it is impossible 
to grow the latter with the other varieties 
named, as Meteor needs a night temperature 
of 65 to 68 degrees, and a day temperature 
from 72 to 85 degrees. Kaiserin Augusta 
Victoria does best in a night temperature 
from 58 to 60 degrees. Papa Gontier and 
Souvenir de Wootton do best in a night 
temperature from 53 to 55 degrees, and a 
rise from 10 to 15 degrees on bright days. 
Perle des Jardins, Sunset and Papa Gontier 
will do in the cooler part of the house. Ameri- 
can Beauty, the standard of merit in a rose 
for winter flower, should have a house of its 
own. It requires special treatment if it is to 
do its best, and further details for the manage- 
ment of that variety are given in another 
section. It is sometimes grown in a mixed 
house, where it occupies the centre bench 



92 



ROSES 



of an even span because it demands more 
head-room than the other forcing roses. 
Liberty is another excellent dark rose, but 
requires special treatment, and not everybody 
has succeeded with it. For a fuller list of forc- 
ing roses the reader is referred to the chapter 
dealing with varieties for special purposes. 

ROSES GROWN WITH CARNATIONS 

It is sometimes convenient to grow roses 
with carnations, on the principle that any 
roses are better than none. Such varieties 
as Papa Gontier, Souvenir de Wootton, 
Perle des Jardins, Madame Cusin, Niphetos, 
Ivory, and Golden Gate (that is the cooler 
kinds), can be grown with carnations pro- 
viding the house is kept at 50 degrees 
at night. To grow these plants in such a 
temperature they require treatment a little 
different from that usually followed in forcing 
roses. They should be planted not later than 
July 1st, should be good stock from not less 
than three-inch pots, and grown liberally 
on till September 1st. Then gradually reduce 
the amount of water at the roots so as to 
get them accustomed to a less amount of 
humidity in the house than is usually given 



CUT FLOWERS UNDER GLASS 93 



for roses. They will show a firm, solid 
wood by the time the carnations are housed. 
From this time on the roses must be kept 
rather dry, and when watered be given only 
enough to moisten the soil through. Water 
should only be applied on bright days, 
and then early in the morning as soon as 
the sun is on the plants. The soil around 
the roots should be made as firm as possible 
soon after planting. About the middle of 
February or early in March the plants should 
have a good mulching of manure. By 
April they will want a larger proportion of 
water, but care must be taken not to get too 
soft a growth. This practice is followed on 
some places and good roses are cut all through 
the winter. 

Liquid manure may be given as soon as 
the plants are well rooted through the bench, 
but it must be given with care. It is well to 
examine the roots from time to time to see 
that all is progressing favourably. 

MANURING AND MULCHING 

With the beginning of January generally, 
or after two crops of flowers have been cut, 
it will be time to feed. This can be done 



94 



ROSES 



either by a mulch or by watering with liquid 
manure made the colour of strong tea. For 
many reasons the liquid is better, although 
some growers prefer the mulch. In using 
a liquid you know when the beds are made 
wet, which is not the case if a mulch is on. 
For the latter use thoroughly rotted cow 
manure by preference. There is a fungus 
which grows on the manure and which 
greatly disfigures the flowers of the roses by 
producing little black specks, the appearance 
of which is avoided if the liquid is used. 

In the liquid a mixture of various animal 
manures can be used — horse, sheep and cow. 
Apply every two weeks. If cow or horse 
manure liquid is used alone, four or five fork- 
fuls to a barrel of water (fifty gallons) will 
give a strong enough decoction for use in the 
early part of the season. Of sheep manure 
take four to six quarts of the pulverized 
article as sold in the seed stores to a barrel 
of water, and let stand for a couple of days 
before use. 

About March, when the sun begins to de- 
velop more power, mulch the beds with a 
dressing of thoroughly spent manure, such as 
comes from an old mushroom bed, or give 



CUT FLOWERS UNDER GLASS 95 



a mixture of well-spent cow manure and soil 
in the proportion of three to one. 

If a chemical fertiliser is desired, the for- 
mula presented by Prof. W. M. Stuart 
(Vermont) may be tried: 

6 ounces nitrate of soda. 
12 ounces superphosphate. 
6 ounces muriate or sulphate of potash. 
Dissolve in fifty gallons of water and apply over 150 
square feet of bench surface. 

This is a quick-acting fertiliser and is pre- 
pared ''for general results. " Chemical ma- 
nures should be tried on a small scale until 
they are understood. The best fertiliser for 
inexperienced hands is animal manure. A 
successful formula has been cow manure, 
one-half bushel; sheep manure, six-inch pot- 
ful; and a five-inch pot of bone meal, to fifty 
gallons of water; or instead of sheep manure 
a four-inch pot of hen droppings may be 
used. Nitrate of soda or sulphate of am- 
monia, a three-inch pot to fifty gallons of 
water, gives excellent results. 

CARRYING OVER 

It is the general practice when roses are 
grown on any large scale to start the benches 



96 



ROSES 



afresh each year with new stock. This has 
been found to be the most satisfactory way, 
as fresh soil, clean benches and new, vigorous 
stock are all assured. But the plants can be 
"carried over" for a second, or third, or even 
fourth year. The method is to withhold 
water gradually, beginning at the end of 
June, until the beds are quite dry. The 
plants must then be carefully watched to 
prevent the wood from shrivelling. Syringing 
should be done daily, and if the weather is 
very warm twice a day. If the plants show 
signs of shrivelling a slight watering should be 
given but not enough to start the buds. At 
the middle of August the plants should be 
pruned. Remove all but the best wood and 
shorten the other. As soon as the cuts are 
healed give a good watering and then remove 
all loose soil; mulch with half manure and 
half soil; give plenty of ventilation night *nd 
day until the foliage shows a dark green 
colour. Treated this way the plants have 
a period of activity, and one of rest. 

THE PLANTS TO USE 

t 

For growing on a smale scale buy the plants 
all ready to set out. It saves a deal of trouble 



CUT FLOWERS UNDER GLASS 97 



if you can be sure of getting good properly 
developed plants propagated from healthy 
stock. Look out especially for the eel worm. 
This flourishes most vigorously in a dry 
soil and is now not common in commercial 
stock. The plant raiser is very particular 
for his own sake to clear out diseased plants, 
and he takes great precautions against eel 
worm by sterilising his soil with steam. The 
amateur is unlikely to attempt this. On the 
other hand, if the home stock is good it is 
well to propagate from that. 

MAKING CUTTINGS 

In home propagation the cuttings should 
be taken from the plants in the benches 
during January. Select flowering wood for 
propagation. Take the last (say) six eyes 
on the stem for cuttings, making them two 
or three eyed. Insert in a propagating bed 
in sand with a bottom heat of 70 degrees and 
a temperature of 55 to 58 degrees. 

Before putting in the sand for propagation 
the benches should be thoroughly white- 
washed and drainage provided. Place the 
boards one-half inch apart, covering the 
cracks with either moss or excelsior; over 



9 8 



ROSES 



this a coat of crocking or cinders, making 
the whole about two inches deep; level evenly 
and beat down firmly. After this select good, 
coarse grit sand and place on a coat of at 
least two and one-half inches, beating it 
quite firm. Give the whole a good watering, 
and it is ready for the cuttings. 

When inserting cuttings into the sand, 
draw a line across the sand about one or 
one and one-fourth inches deep with a blunt 
knife; place the cuttings in the channel thus 
made, pressing down firmly to the bottom of 
the cut. When the row is full press the sand 
firmly against the cuttings, and with a fine 
rose watering pot (not hose) give a good 
watering. Repeat this as fast as the cuttings 
are put in, and do not make too many at 
once, nor let them get dry at the base before 
putting into the sand. Should it be neces- 
sary to have strong fire heat to keep up the 
desired temperature (55 to 60 degrees, with 
70 to 80 bottom heat), the cuttings should be 
syringed at least once a day, and if the sand 
shows the least indication of getting dry give 
another good watering. The floor of the 
propagating house should be kept moist all 
the time, so as to have a nice, mcict atmos- 



CUT FLOWERS UNDER GLASS 99 



phere. When taking the cuttings be very 
careful to keep the leaf on. If that is allowed 
to fall off the chances are greatly against 
success. Keep a good* circulation of air, as 
otherwise the cutting-bench fungus is likely 
to appear. 

The cuttings will be rooted in about twenty 
or twenty-five days, which can be told by 
prying a few out of the sand by means of a 
wooden ladle or other similar handy article. 
If they have roots over one-half inch long 
they are ready to be potted. For this pur- 
pose use a mixture of loam three parts, sand 
one part, and rotted cow manure one part. 
Use two or two and one-half inch pots for 
the first potting and be sure to put them in 
firmly, pressing down the soil with the thumb 
and finishing off with a sharp rap on the 
bench. Place near the glass and water 
heavily only after a few days. In five or six 
weeks shift on to larger pots — three or four 
inch — using a compost as before with bone 
meal added at the rate of two quarts to a 
barrow load of soil, and don't omit to pot 
firmly. Some growers give the second shift 
in three weeks and another into six-inch 
pots five weeks later. Plants should be 



100 



ROSES 



bought from the grower not later than 
May. 

The potted plants must be given attention 
as regards ventilation up to the end of April, 
giving air only at the ridge. Use the means 
already told for fighting mildew and fumigate 
with tobacco for aphis. After June 1st, air 
may be freely given top and bottom, syringing 
them as necessary about once a day to keep 
them growing. 

PLANTS IN POTS 

Tea Roses can be successfully flowered in 
pots instead of being put out into benches. 
For this purpose they are put back into the 
plunging material after the final shifting into 
six-inch pots and grown on until the middle 
of September. During August the amount 
of water is reduced so that they get a slight 
"rest." After being put into the house they 
are mulched to the top of the pot with a mix- 
ture of cow manure and ground bone, about 
twenty to one. Liquid manure is given in 
December, using the formula already advo- 
cated for the plants in the benches, but it 
can be given more often — once a week. 
These plants will commence to flower in 



CUT FLOWERS UNDER GLASS IOI 

about two weeks after they are brought 
inside. 

As the mulch gets spent it must be renewed 
about the middle of December. When the 
spring appears and growth is more natural 
the plants will take more water. In June 
they are to be taken out from the house and 
again plunged to the rim and after a little 
while gradually get dried off to rest, care 
being had of course that the wood does not 
shrivel. They can be shifted to larger pots 
after about a month. Prune in August by 
cutting out all but the strong young shoots. 
Water again as signs of new growth appear 
and put into the houses in September to be 
treated for another year as already described. 

Hybrid Perpetuals are less popular than 
the Teas and Hybrid Teas. Their treatment 
differs from that accorded to the others be- 
cause they are dried off more thoroughly and 
rested completely for several weeks. The 
pruning is done as for the garden plants in 
spring, but in September, when the wood is 
thoroughly ripe. They are then gradually 
brought into growth by watering and are re- 
moved indoors as soon as the buds are 
plunged and there is danger of frost. They 



102 



ROSES 



will flower in three months or a little more 
from starting. Begin in a low temperature 
— thirty-five degrees at night, gradually in- 
creasing to forty-five degrees at night, which 
is maintained until the buds are forming. 
After the buds are formed liquid manure 
can be given, the same as for Teas. 

GROWING AMERICAN BEAUTY ROSES UNDER 
GLASS 

The American Beauty Rose is one of the 
special high-class products of modern glass 
gardening. Its successful cultivation requires 
close attention to many details. These de- 
tails, as understood by professional florists, are 
briefly set forth in this paper. 

For propagating, use sharp sand, four 
inches deep, well firmed and kept at a uniform 
temperature of fifty-five to sixty degrees, and 
overhead temperature at from sixty to sixty- 
five degrees. The cuttings should be medium- 
sized wood with two eyes. Trim the foliage 
in such a manner as to prevent its lying on the 
sand and turning yellow from too much 
moisture. Shade for a few days by hanging 
light-weight muslin over the bench, but no 
closer to them than one foot from the top of 



CUT FLOWERS UNDER GLASS 



the bench. Give more space, if possible, 
to prevent condensation of moisture on 
foliage. 

When the cuttings have made roots an 
inch long put them in two-inch pots and 
place them on a bench in the house with a 
temperature of fifty-six at night and sixty- 
eight in the daytime. Shade for a few days, 
as mentioned for cuttings. Paper shading 
is too dense and is likely to sweat them too 
much. For potting, use the same soil as 
for general planting, adding a very small 
quantity of bone meal. Shift into three-inch 
pots, then into four-inch, never allowing the 
plants to become root-bound. 

Many a grower thinks additional bottom 
heat essential, but, while it will root the 
cuttings from three to four davs sooner, it will 
be at the expense of the vitality and strength 
of the future plant. In the temperature 
described, the cuttings will usually take root 
in from thirtv to thirty-five days. 

As soon as they have roots from one-half 
inch to an inch long, they should be carefully 
lifted out of the sand and potted in two-inch 
clean pots. The best soil to put young 
roses into is a fresh loam. For the first 



104 



ROSES 



potting it should have but very little manure 
in it, and if of heavy nature a liberal propor- 
tion of sand ought to be added. In potting 
the plants be very careful not to break the 
young, tender roots. 

When potted place them on the bench 
with some ashes or sand under them. Water 
with a fine rose, and should we have bright 
sunshine, give a syringing overhead at least 
twice a day, and for about a week shade 
them during the middle of the day from 
direct sunshine. Such plants make good, 
vigorous stock if kept growing steadily. 
Never let them get pot-bound at any time, 
and shift as required. The temperature 
should be kept as nearly as possible to that 
of the propagating house. 

For soil, use five parts of the regular rose- 
house sod to one part of pure cow manure, 
put up the previous autumn and thoroughly 
mixed in the usual way, by chopping down 
and repiling at least twice before using. 
It is immaterial whether the soil is of clay or 
sandy nature, as good results may be obtained 
from either kind. 

In planting, fill the benches with soil four 
inches deep, firming it before setting the 



CUT FLOWERS UNDER GLASS 



plants, which should be fifteen inches apart 
both ways. Leave a slight depression around 
the base of the plant in order that the ball 
may receive the direct benefit from a good 
watering after plants have been set. The 
subsequent waterings should be very carefully 
applied until heavy firing commences, when 
the plants will be better able to withstand 
water to a certain extent. That is, keep them 
on the "dry side." If not allowed to dry 
out, the earth will become sour and prevent 
root action. It is essential at all stages of 
growth to keep the plants growing without 
any checks, but do not force them or they will 
give poor results later in the season. 

The plants should be disbudded. Pinch 
off the first crop of buds when they have 
shown colour. Have the plants well estab- 
lished before allowing them to bloom, being 
careful not to rob them of too much foliage. 
Use judgment between the strong and weak 
plants. When cutting the blooms from 
young or matured plants, their future growth 
should be taken into consideration. Try 
to determine how many "eyes" of the wood 
should be taken with the bud in order that they 
may " break " freely and to the best advantage. 



io6 



ROSES 



Give plenty of fresh air, avoiding draughts. 
Moisten the walks twice a day in hot, dry 
weather; otherwise avoid too much moisture. 
Shading the glass has a tendency to make 
plants spindling. Keep the house as nearly 
as possible at fifty-eight to sixty degrees by 
night, and seventy to seventy-five degrees by 
day, excepting cloudy days, when it should 
be kept at sixty-five degrees. Ventilation 
should be given gradually, avoiding extremes. 
Letting the temperature run too high before 
giving air is likely to induce mildew, black 
spot and injury to the buds. 

For mulching on the beds use half soil and 
half cow manure, composted and made fine 
under cover at least four months before using. 
Apply lightly in August, freely about January 
1st, and a light application in April. 

Syringing should be done on bright days 
only, commencing early in the day, but not 
before the sun is shining, in order that the 
plants may have time to dry off before sunset, 
particularly if the weather is too warm for 
firing. Syringing is not necessary on every 
bright day, providing red spider has been 
kept in check from the start. A good nozzle 
for syringing is made by taking a brass hose- 



CUT FLOWERS UNDER GLASS IO7 



pipe ten inches long, attaching thereto a 
sprinkler three inches in diameter at right 
angles, with holes made a trifle larger than 
ordinarily used. With a water pressure of 
from seventy to eighty pounds directed to the 
under side of the foliage this spray will 
dislodge the spider without knocking the 
plants about as much as by the older methods. 

Green aphis is likely to be troublesome. 
Do not wait until it makes its appearance. 
Smoke the houses weekly in the autumn 
with tobacco stems that have been moistened 
with water to prevent blazing. Discontinue 
when the mornings become too cold to admit 
giving plenty of air; then tobacco stems 
should be substituted, being suspended under 
the edge of the bench in poultry netting. 
Stems will last much longer used in this 
way, besides keeping the house sweeter and 
cleaner. 

For mildew, paint the flow-pipes with 
sulphur mixed with water. This will not 
adhere as readily to the pipes as if mixed 
with oil or lime, but it will be more efficacious 
in emitting the fumes, and is not as injurious 
to the pipes. In warm weather, during the 
absence of firing, dust the plants with 



ROSES 



sulphur mixed with air-slaked lime and ap- 
ply with a bellows especially made for this 
purpose, or use "grape dust" in very much 
the same way. 

The plants may be supported bv using two 
wire canes or stakes five feet long (So. S wire") 
for each plant and held in position one foot 
from top of stake by a wire running lengthwise 
over the bench. To have straight stems and 
uniform foliage the growth should be kept 
carefully tied, giving all the room that is 
possible for light and air. 

When the old plants have been discarded 
and the old soil removed, the bench bottoms, 
sides and corners should be thoroughly 
cleansed bv scraping and brushing. Then 
fumigate with burning sulphur, and after 
the house has been sufficiently aired, white- 
wash inside of benches before filling with new 
soil. In this, as in other horticultural 
operations of importance, avoidance of trou- 
ble from fungous diseases depends Largely 
on cleanliness and the establishing of anti- 
septic conditions. Especially is this true 
when successive crops of the same sort are 
grown under " forcing " methods. 

Three-quarter-span houses of the usual 



CUT FLOWERS UNDER GLASS IO9 

iron construction are to be preferred; the 
benches being four feet three inches by 
five inches deep. American Beauties are 
grown only on the two inside benches of 
the house. Good results are also obtained 
in houses of " even-span" with benches on 
the same level. 



CHAPTER VII 



Types and Races 

Key to the horticultural groups — Types commonly 
grown — Time of blooming — The hardiest races. 

A broad division of roses into two great 
natural classes may be made: (i) summer 
flowering and (2) summer and autumn 
flowering. While certain individual roses 
may be picked out as typifying the many 
groups into which these classes are again sub- 
divided, such minute classification is not a 
practical one nowadays. The border lines 
have been overlapped in all directions so that 
for garden purposes a broader significance 
can be given to many of the old-time larger 
groups, ignoring the finer distinctions of the 
hair-splitting rosarians. For the average 
amateur an acquaintance with the Hybrid 
Perpetual, Hybrid Tea, Tea, Noisette, Multi- 
flora (Rambler), and Rugosa and Wichura- 
iana is all that is necessary. In many cases 
there are perpetual flowering forms of the 

no 



TYPES AND RACES 



III 



summer flowering groups, and climbing forms 
of many bush types are in cultivation, so 
that an exact classification long ago became 
difficult, and the condition is more trying as 
time sees new arrivals. 

A KEY TO THE GARDEN GROUPS OF ROSES 

CLASS I. — SUMMER FLOWERING ROSES, BLOOMING ONCE ONLY 

A. Large flowered (double). 

B. Growth branching or pendulous; leaf wrinkled . . .Provence, 
Moss, Pompon, Sulphurea. 
BB. Growth firm and robust; leaf downy. . . .Damask and French, 
Hybrid French, Hybrid Provence, Hybrid Bourbon, Hybrid 
China. 

BBB. Growth free; leaf whitish above, spineless Alba. 

AA. Small flowered (single and double). 

B. Growth climbing; flowers produced singly Ayrshire. 

BB. Growth climbing; flowers in clusters. . . .Evergreen, Semper- 
virens, Wichuraiana, Cherokee, Banksian. 
BBB. Growth short jointed, generally, except in Alpine. . . .Briers, 
Austrian, Scotch, Sweet, Penzance, Alpine, Prairie. 
BBBBB. Growth free; foliage wrinkled Pompon. 

CLASS II — SUMMER AND AUTUMN FLOWERING ROSES, BLOOMING MORE 
OR LESS CONTINUOUSLY 

A. Large flowered. 

B. Foliage very rough Hybrid Perpetual, Hybrid Tea, 

Perpetual, Moss. 

BB. Foliage rough Bourbon, Bourbon Perpetual. 

BBB. Foliage smooth China, Tea, Lawrenceana (Fairy). 

AA. Smaller flowered. 

B. Foliage deciduous. 
C. Habit climbing. 

D. Cluster flowered Musk, Noisette, Polyantha, 

Wichuraiana hybrid. 

DD. Flowers solitary Ayrshire Perpetual. 

CC. Habit dwarf, bushy Perpetual Briers, Rugosa, 

Lucida, Blanda, Microphylla, Berberidifolia, Scotch. 

BB. Foliage more or less persistent .Evergreen, Macartney, 

Wichuraiana. 



112 



ROSES 



FEATURES OF THE MORE POPULAR GROUPS 

Alba or White Rose. — A small group, 
little known. Habit: Free growing. Foli- 
age: Whitish above; deep green below. 
Prickles: None, in type, but hybrids with 
other groups have prickles. Flowers: Light 
colours, medium size. Flower once. Cul- 
ture: Adapted to anv soil; prune closelv. 
Type: Felecite Parmentier. 

Alpine or Boursalt. — Habit: Climbing; 
long, flexible, reddish-coloured shoots. Foli- 
age: Glabrous, seven to nine leaflets, gland- 
ular. Prickles: Generally none. Flower: 
Purple or crimson, mostly; in large clusters. 
Bloom once. Culture: Adapted for shady 
places; prune by thinning freely, but leave 
flowering wood. Type: Amadis. 

Ayrshire. — Habit: Climbing, slender 
shoots, rapid growing, fifteen to twenty feet 
in one season. Foliage: Five leaflets, dull 
above, sometimes pubescent beneath. Tex- 
ture thin. Prickles: None or very few. 

j 

Flowers: Produced singly, moderate size, 
two and one-half inches across. White to 
deep crimson. Bloom once. Culture: Hardy, 
but not so hardy as the Prairie Roses. Do 



TYPES AND RACES 



113 



not require rich soil. Prune very little. 
Type: Queen of the Belgians. 

Banksia. — Habit: Climbing, slender; 
rapid grower. Foliage: Dark green, glossy, 
often only three leaflets. Prickles: None. 
Flowers: Small (one inch across) in umbels, 
once in the season — May. Culture: In rich 
soil in greenhouses in the North. Prune 
very sparingly. Type: Yellow (scented like 
violets). 

Bengal or China (Monthly Rose). — 
Habit: Moderate, branching growth three to 
five feet high. Foliage: Glaucous green, dark 
above, pale beneath, three to seven leaflets. 
Prickles: Brownish-red. Flower: Profuse 
when well grown. Not fragrant. Small. 
Produced all summer. Culture: Rich soil. 
Prune close. Type: Agrippina. 

Bourbon. — Habit: Vigorous. Intermedi- 
ate between Bengal and Damask, with great 
range. Foliage: Dark, lustrous, seven leaf- 
lets. Prickles: Various. Flowers: Light 
shades, generally with some purple, and pro- 
duced in clusters all summer (some few do not 
bloom freely in autumn). Culture: Rich soil. 
Prune closely. If the shoots are cut back 
immediately after flowering bloom will be 



n 4 



ROSES 



continuous till frost. Moderately hardy. 
Type: Hermosa. 

Briers. — Austrian, Scotch, Sweet, Pen- 
zance. Habit: Short jointed, branching 
freely. Foliage: Small, spiny, fragrant in 
Sweetbrier. Prickles: Abundant, except in 
alpine. Flowers: Small. Yellow in Austrian. 
Short lived. Bloom once. Culture: Scotch 
grows well in sandy soil. Sweetbriers like 
a heavy rich soil. Prune by removing some 
of the oldest shoots. All are hardy. Do not 
respond greatly to high cultivation. Type: 
Rosa spinosissima. 

Austrian Briers have chocolate-brown bark. 
Demand dry soil. Flowers, yellow. Type, 
Persian yellow. 

Scotch Roses are excessively spiny and 
sucker freely. 

Sweetbriers have fragrant foliage and deco- 
rative fruits. Flowers, light coloured and 
small. 

Penzance Hybrid Sweetbriers are hybrids 
from the Sweetbrier, sixteen varieties, all 
good. Lord Penzance is the prettiest in 
colour, while Minna and Green Mantle are 
most fragrant. They should have a high 
trellis and be at least eight feet apart. To 



THE BEST ROSE FOR HEDGES AND SEASIDE 
Rosa rugosa, a Japanese species with thick, dark green, glossy wrinkled leaves, 
Free from insects and disease. The large red hips last into winter 



TYPES AND RACES 



"5 



prune, shorten back the over-vigorous growth 
and remove some of the oldest shoots. 

Damask and French. — Habit: Robust 
green shoots, vigorous grower. Foliage: Five 
to seven leaflets, downy, coriaceous. Pale 
green in Damask, dark green in French. 
Prickles: Very numerous in Damask; slightly 
fewer in French. Flower: Generally flat. 
Those of French Rose bleach in sunlight and 
develop perfume in dried petals. Damask 
Rose loses scent on drying. Flower once. Cul- 
ture: Suited to any soil, very hardy. Prune 
by thinning out the abundant shoots. Gener- 
ally superseded by the hybrid of other groups. 
Types: Mme. Hardy (Damask), Boule de 
Nantenie (French). Variations: Hybrid 
French, less robust, smoother, short-jointed 
wood. Hybrid China, derived from French, 
Provence, Noisette, or Bourbon. More dif- 
fuse growth, foliage shining, enduring late 
in the season. Very hardy, adapted to poor 
soils. Prune but slightly. The so-called 
Hybrid Perpetuals, which, however, bloom 
but once in summer, and which have helped to 
diminish the proper appreciation of that 
class, are properly Hybrid China Roses. 
Type: Mme. Plantier. 



ii6 



ROSES 



Evergreen (Sempervirens). — Habit: 
Climbing. Very vigorous. Reddish bark. 
Foliage: Dark green, retained late in the 
season. Seven leaflets, glabrous. Prickles: 
Hooked. Flowers: Scanty in corymbs, once 
in June. Culture: Hardy. Prune by cut- 
ting out entirely shoots that need thinning. 
Type: Felicite Perpetuelle. 

Hybrid Perpetual. — The most important 
group for general garden cultivation. For 
practical purposes of the amateur ail the 
sundry roses which bloom once in the sum- 
mer and again more or less intermittently 
in the autumn are now included here. Hybrid 
China Roses differ from Hybrid Perpetuals 
in that they bloom once only, in summer. 
Habit: Various. Generally stiff, upright, 
sometimes inclined to pendulous. Foliage: 
Dull green, wrinkled, not shiny. Prickles: 
Various, generally strong and fairly abundant. 
Flowers: Of all types, partaking of Tea, 
Damask, French, Bourbon, etc., produced 
in summer and autumn. Culture: Good gar- 
den soil, rich and deep, inclined to heavy. 
Prune by cutting back, according to habit; 
if very vigorous, prune less severely than if 
weak, as heavy pruning tends too much to 



TYPES AND RACES 



wood production. Examples: Mme. Gabriel 
Luizet, American Beauty. 

Hybrid Tea. — The most popular roses 
for all-round cultivation in the garden and 
under glass. Habit: Intermediate between 
that of the Tea and Hybrid Perpetual. 
Foliage: Rougher than in the Teas and 
slightly wrinkled; not so rough as in the 
Hybrid Perpetuals. Prickles : Generally 
large and strong, though not very abundant. 
Occasionally very few. Flowers: Of various 
types, generally well formed, with a large 
number of petals and an elongated bud- 
Bloom throughout the season. Culture: 
Same as for the Teas, except that as a class 
they require less protection. Examples: 
Killarnev, Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, The 
Bride, etc. 

Multiflora (Rambler Roses). — Habit : 
Climbing or recurving; very vigorous, green 
shoots. Foliage: Bright green, slightly hairy, 
serrate, nine leaflets. Prickles: Abundant 
and strong. Flowers: In pyramidal corymbs, 
once in the season. Culture: Good, rich 
garden soil. Prune by cutting out old canes 
that have flowered. Type: Crimson Ram- 
bler. This group has been hybridised with 



n8 



ROSES 



other climbing roses and is very uncertainly 
defined. 

Musk and Noisette. — Habit: Slender 
shoots, half climbing, six feet in height. 
Foliage: Shiny, usually pubescent beneath 
five to seven leaflets. Prickles: Moderate in 
quantity, hooked, reddish. Flowers: Pale 
colours, including the best yellows, very 
fragrant, generally in clusters. Culture : 
Good garden soil; requires slight protection 
in winter. Treated generally as the Teas. 
Prune moderately. Type: Cloth of Gold 
(Chromatella). 

Prairie. — Habit: Climbing, rapid grow- 
ing. Foliage: Five to seven leaflets, dark 
green, rough, large. Prickles: Stout and 
moderately numerous. Flowers: In clusters, 
once, late in the season. Culture: Any gar- 
den soil. The Prairie Roses thrive over a 
greater extent of territory than any other 
group. Prune but slightly, cutting out old 
canes as necessary. Type: Baltimore Belle. 

Provence. — Habit: Branching, pendulous 
and straggling. Foliage: Large, broad, 
wrinkled, deeply serrate. Seven leaflets gen- 
erally. Prickles: Sometimes fine and 
straight, sometimes coarse and hooked. 



TYPES AND RACES 



II 9 



Flowers: Large, globular, with a great num- 
ber of petals. Very fragrant. Blooms once 
only. Culture: Rich soil; prune closely, 
unless very vigorous. Type: Cabbage Rose. 
Sub-Varieties: Moss Roses. Pompon, dwarf, 
with cupped flowers. 

Rugosa. — Habit: Dense bushes, short 
jointed. Foliage: Shiny, much wrinkled, 
very dark green, remarkably free from insect 
pests. Prickles: Numerous and stout, but 
small. Flowers: Single or double, produced 
intermittently throughout the season. Pink 
or white, followed by handsome fruits. Cul- 
ture: Does well in any garden soil and is well 
adapted for seaside planting. Prune by 
cutting out nearly all old wood and shortening 
the remainder. Examples: Rosa rugosa, 
Mme. Georges Bruant. 

Tea. — Habit: Slender growing bushes, 
branching freely. Bark smooth, shiny. Foli- 
age: Smooth, shiny, never rough or hairy. 
Young growths often copper coloured. 
Prickles: Moderately abundant, or almost 
absent in some varieties. Flowers: Generally 
light coloured, darkened where exposed to 
the sun. Tea scented. Produced through- 
out the entire season — a really perpetual class. 



120 



ROSES 



Culture: Very rich soil, thoroughly well 
drained. Protection in winter is necessarv 
except in the real South or in California. In 
the climate of the East and Xorth the Teas 
are not hardy. Prune by cutting back hard. 
Example: Isabella Sprunt. 

Wichuraiana Hybrids (R. Wichuraiana 
X Teas or Hybrid Perpetuals). — Habit: 
Prostrate, slender; green bark. Foliage: 
Small, glabrous, nine leaflets, half evergreen. 
Prickles: Hooked, small. Flowers: Small, 
numerous, in corymbs, July to September. 
Culture: On any sort of soil; does well in all 
sorts of situations. Prune only as necessary 
to the overcrowded shoots. Type: Dawson. 
This is a new group of immense importance 
to American gardens, yielding the best climb- 
ing roses for porch or trellis. 

WHEN THEY BLOOM 

The Hybrid Perpetual varieties have one 
period of bloom, from about June 5th to July 
5th. If judiciously cut back after blooming, 
some additional flowers mav be expected in 
mid-autumn. But as a rule the term "per- 
petual" is a verv misleading name with 
American conditions of climate. This is the 




A NEARLY SINGLE FORM OF THE PROVENCE ROSE 

The French rose and the Damask rose have been hybridised with the Tea 
and other China roses, producing the Hybrid Perpetual class, which includes 
nearly all the common garden roses 



TYPES AND RACES 



121 



reason why so many people are disappointed, 
who expect these roses to flower freely a second 
time, as described in English books, which 
treat of English conditions. The Provence 
and Damask Roses also bloom between June 
5th and July 5th. 

The Teas, Hybrid Teas and Bourbons have 
two distinct periods of bloom, namely, from 
about June 15th to July 25th, and again from 
the beginning of September until cut down 
by frost. 

The China (or Bengal) and Polyantha Roses 
bloom off and on at intervals throughout the 
season. Few of them attain to any great size 
of flower, and most of the Polyanthas bloom 
in clusters of miniature roses. But both are 
very useful at times, when few other roses can 
be had, and no garden of any large size should 
be entirely without them. They should be 
bedded apart from the larger growing 
varieties, for most of them are small growers; 
but this rule is by no means absolute; Eugene 
Beauharnais (Bengal) and Marie Pavie (Po- 
lyantha), for example, being very large bushes. 

Rugosas, owing to their very bushy growth, 
should be in separate beds. Four feet be- 
tween plants will be none too much. They 



122 



ROSES 



bloom once profusely, and off and on sparingly 
thereafter. 

The climbers follow their races in periods 
of bloom, the climbing Perpetuals blooming 
once and the climbing Teas having two good 
periods of bloom. The Noisettes have the 
Tea habit; the climbing Hybrid Polyanthas 
(which includes the Ramblers), and also the 
Wichuraiana Hybrids, bloom but once. 

The climbers of any given race take much 
longer to be established than the non-climbing 
varieties. Climbers, if planted in a row 
along a fence or trellis, should be at least four 
feet apart. Several varieties need twice the 
space between plants. Their soil should re- 
ceive at least as deep cultivation as the ordi- 
nary rose beds and the plants themselves 
should not be forgotten, as they often are, 
when the food supplies are going around. 

THE HARDIEST RACES 

The Hybrid Perpetuals and Rugosas are 
absolutely hardy in the latitude of New York 
and for some distance north, and require no 
protection. Polyanthas do not need much, 
and indeed usually get along well enough 
without any overcoat. All other kinds are 



TYPES AND RACES 



123 



more or less tender. If the owner is satisfied 
with a single month of bloom and cannot 
devote the necessary time and attention to 
protecting other varieties, then all the roses 
should be selected from among the Hybrid 
Perpetuals and Rugosas and the hardy 
climbers. 

In any case, start with the very best field- 
grown plants that can be found. Inferior 
stock is dear at any price, and plants grown 
in greenhouses cannot be relied upon to sur- 
vive the winter out of doors. 



CHAPTER VIII 



Roses for Special Purposes 

Abbreviations. — (B.), Bourbon; (D.), Damask; (F.), 
French or Gallica; (H.B.), Hybrid Bourbon; (H.C.), 
Hybrid China; (H.N.), Hybrid Noisette; (H.P.), 
Hybrid Perpetual, including some of the hybrid Bour- 
bons; (H.T.), Hybrid Tea; (M.), Multiflora; N.), 
Noisette; (P.), Prairie (roses derived from R. setigera); 
(R.H.), Rambler hybrids (Crimson Rambler, one 
parent); (T.), Tea-scented, (W.H.), Wichuraiana 
hybrid. 

We can have roses almost anywhere. It 
is even possible to have them in poor, 
sandy soil, but it is not possible to have the 
best double varieties without the best soil 
and the best care. There can be roses on 
walls, on trellises, on tree trunks, on arbours, 
in the city garden, at the seashore, and about 
the mountain home where your summer is 
enjoyed. There are roses that bloom in the 
summer, others that make the garden glow 
in autumn, and some that are so lavish with 
flower that they repeat their gifts of colour 

124 



ROSES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES I25 



and fragrance through the season. As a 
whole, the rose family asks for a deep, rich 
and heavy soil; but the Burnet, or Scotch, 
roses will thrive in sand; so will the Memorial, 
or Wichuraiana — and there are a score of 
excellent varieties derived from this which 
make rampant growth with almost no soil at 
all, and seem not to ask much care. 

We have been so long trained to think and 
speak of roses as only for their individual 
flowers that whole groups and families of 
kinds that do not make a great display of 
specimen individual flowers have been almost 
lost to the sight of the ordinary individual. It 
is not true that all roses are ugly plants, to be 
regarded only as the means of producing 
glorious roses, and that therefore their proper 
place is in an out-of-the-w^ay corner where 
they will never be seen. Roses there are 
which are as good material for the garden 
picture as any other of the flowering shrubs. 
Let us have roses about our homes, and in 
every garden. If there is no other possibility, 
plant a climber to ramble over the piazza and 
show its rose buds about the window frame. 
Elsewhere have w 7 alks of roses, arbours of 
roses, pillars of roses, roses climbing up, and 



126 



ROSES 



roses in wreaths hanging down, and, indeed, 
roses everywhere. Grow them for their 
colour, for their fragrance, and — because 
they are roses! 

How to do this ? Select the proper vari- 
eties of the proper groups, and, above all, 
don't put up a fight against the inherent 
nature of particular plants, for it will be a 
losing struggle, and there is no lasting pleas- 
ure in that sort of gardening. Certain con- 
ceits of rose culture demand special methods 
of setting about the desired end. Unless you 
are wonderfully favoured, standards are not 
possible under the usual method of perma- 
nent planting, and it then becomes necessary 
to take them into trenches each winter. 
Again, climate controls the rose grower; a 
garden of Teas and other of the tender roses 
which is an easy matter in the South and on 
the Pacific Coast is not a question of prac- 
tical gardening in the East and the North. 
The gardener has to make his garden from 
the best possibilities, and the more this is 
realised the less apparent is the effort. 
American gardens have at hand a rich mass 
of available material for rose effects without 
a slavish adherence to the better known gar- 



ROSES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES 



127 



den roses of the Hybrid Perpetual and Hybrid 
Tea or pure Tea types. Even the native 
species are of importance, especially for 
shrubbery effects. What better than the bright 
red bark of Rosa blanda, massed, in the 
winter landscape! The Multiflora group, as 
represented by the now ubiquitous Crimson 
Rambler, has opened the eyes of thousands 
of suburban home makers to the possibilities 
of roses other than the ordinary. It is realised 
that there are- roses for many purposes, and 
the Crimson Rambler itself has become a 
many-purposed rose. How great a reality 
it, and its contemporary arrival — the Wichu- 
raiana — have become, will be better under- 
stood by a reference to the following lists. 
These two roses must be regarded reverently 
by the progressive rosarian on account of what 
has been accomplished through their accept- 
ance as garden plants. They have helped 
the million to learn that there are roses and 
roses — and roses; that there are varieties 
for all kinds of purposes, and that a rose 
garden is a possibility anywhere if there 
is a foot or two of soil and a few rays of 
sunshine. 

What everybody wants, and what we shall 



128 



ROSES 



never get is a perfect double rose that is fra- 
grant, and borne in great profusion on a bush 
that is beautiful even when out of bloom, and 
which will grow without care, is free from 
insects and diseases and will not die in the 
winter. There are roses in Europe that come 
within a mile of this ideal, but rose culture in 
America is still in its infancy. Our climate 
is fundamentally different from that of 
Europe, and the roses of the future must be 
hybrids of the best double roses of the Old 
World with the hardy roses of Japan, which 
are better adapted for plant-breeding pur- 
poses than the wild rose of the Northeastern 
United States. Meanwhile we must endure 
the nuisance of budded roses. Many desir- 
able varieties are not strong growing enough 
and have to be grafted upon the roots of 
stronger-growing species. The latter natu- 
rally throw out suckers which will strangle the 
choice variety unless they are watched daily 
and the suckers removed. By deep planting 
the budded part may be induced to make 
roots, and the original root dying, " own-root" 
plants will result. The common roses that 
everybody grows are the Hybrid Perpetuals, 
or H. P.'s as they are commonly called. 



ROSES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES 



129 



This class includes practically all of the im- 
portant double roses that are supposed to 
be hardy in the North. This class has been 
created by hybridising the French Rose and 
the allied Damask Rose with the China Rose, 
of which the Tea Rose is the favourite 
type. The Tea Rose is the most fragrant 
and has the most beautiful bud of any Rose, 
but the main reason for crossing it with 
the roses of Western Europe is its ever- 
blooming character. The Tea Rose blooms 
intermittently all the summer and autumn, 
whereas the roses of western Europe usually 
give a lot of bloom in the month of June and 
do not flower again until the next year. Un- 
fortunately the Tea Rose is not hardy, i. e., 
it will not survive the winter outdoors in cold 
climates, except in special locations, and with 
special treatment. Tea Roses are the glory 
of the South and of California and the delight 
of the Northern amateur who is willing to 
fuss with them. They need winter overcoats 
of straw or they must be covered a foot or 
two deep with manure to prevent the roots 
from freezing. The Hybrid Tea, a blending 
of the tender Tea and the H.P., is hardier 
than the Tea proper and gives some of the 



130 



ROSES 



most desirable roses; most of the modern 
favourites are of this class. 

It is impossible to have the best roses and 
the best bush at the same time. The pruning 
and general cultivation are entirely different. 
The two purposes cannot be entirely recon- 
ciled. If you want the best double roses, 
your rose bushes are sure to be unsightly 
when they are out of bloom. If you want a 
rose bush that will look well through the sea- 
son you cannot have the best double flowers. 
If you want the individual flowers you must 
grow flowers — not plants — by pruning hard 
each year in the spring, cutting back almost 
to the ground. In this climate the standard 
roses should be grown on the Dog Rose stock, 
every plant dug up in the autumn, laid in a 
trench, and covered for the winter. The 
standard is of service only to relieve the level 
monotony of a formal rose garden. It does 
not give larger flowers. 

In the lists for special purposes, which 
follow, the object has been to present selec- 
tions of the best varieties suited to each case. 
The lists, in other words, are not exclusive, 
but suggestive rather. The previously pub- 
lished statements of experienced growers have 



ROSES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES 



been freely drawn from, and it is very inter- 
esting to observe how frequently certain 
varieties are named in widely separated parts 
of the country. 

VARIETIES FOR A ROSE GARDEN (DR. HUEY's 

lists) 

All Hybrid Perpetual Roses do not do well 
in America, and some favourites in England 
and Ireland are utterly worthless here. In 
order to discover the best for this climate, 
Dr. Robert Huey, of Philadelphia, Pa., has 
been to considerable pains, and every Hybrid 
Perpetual in Dickson's catalogue has been 
thoroughly tested by garden cultivation. For 
this valuable and complete trial the thanks 
of all rosarians are due. The following va- 
rieties have all given good satisfaction: 

White Roses, H.P. 

Merveille de Lyon 
White Baroness 
Frau Karl Druschki 
Margaret Dickson 
Mabel Morrison 
Gloire Lyonnaise 

The last is an H.T. but is a vigorous grower, blooms only 
in June, and should be planted with this class. 



132 



ROSES 



Pink Roses, H.P. 
Baroness Rothschild 
Caroline cTArden 
Heinrich Schultheis 
Her Majesty 
Mme. Gabriel Luizet 
Marquise de Castellane 
Mrs. R. G. S. Crawford 
Mrs. John Laing 
Paul Neyron 
Paul's Early Blush 
Suzanne Marie Rodocanachi 

Crimson and Carmine Roses, H. P. 
Captain Hayward 
Duke of Edinburgh 
Duke of Teck 
Duke of Fife 
Etienne Levet 
Fisher Holmes 
General Jacqueminot 
Oscar Cordel 
Prince Arthur 
Ulrich Brunner 

The best of the very dark roses is Prince 
Camille de Rohan. Sultan of Zanzibar, 
Louis van Hotte and Xavier Olibo might also 
be tried. They are, however, weak growers, 
and do not often perfect their blooms. 

Trellis Roses 
Reine Marie Henriette 
Gardenia 



ROSES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES I33 



Ard's Rover 

Paul's Carmine Pillar 

Rosa setigera 

Dorothy Perkins 

Queen Alexandra 

Crimson Rambler 

Lord Penzance Hybrid Sweetbriers 

Reine Marie Henriette is undoubtedly the 
very finest trellis rose for the climate of Phila- 
delphia. It is a vigorous grower, fairly 
hardy, and is a glory in June, while through- 
out the entire summer, and autumn until 
frost, many good blooms may be gathered. 
In pruning, the leading shoots should be cut 
back to a little above the trellis, and the 
laterals shortened to two eyes. 

Hybrid Teas 

Some of the Hybrid Tea Roses are hardy and 
vigorous in growth and constitution, and in 
freedom and size of bloom they surpass all 
other sections. About one hundred and fifty 
varieties have already been introduced, a few 
of which are excellent, some mediocre, and 
most worthless for our climate. After a trial 
of about eighty varieties, some fifteen are 
believed to be well worthy of cultivation here. 
There are some others that give good prom- 



J 34 



ROSES 



ise, but they are not sufficiently known to 
report upon. The following are recom- 
mended : 

Killarney 
Caroline Testout 
Antoine Rivoire 
Viscountess Folkestone 
Souv. de President Carnot 
La France 

Kaiserin Augusta Victoria 

Alice Grahame 

Ellen Wilmot 

Clara Watson 

Mme. Abel Chatenay 

Liberty 

Gruss an Teplitz 
M. Bunel 

Reine Marie Henriette 

Killarney is the most satisfactory rose in 
this or any other class for growing out of doors. 
The growth is strong and vigorous, perfume 
delicious, petals of great substance, colour 
most beautiful, and it is a free and continuous 
bloomer. 

ROSES FOR VACATION HOMES 

If the vacation home is occupied toward 
the end of the summer rather than at the 
beginning, plant about it those roses that 



ROSES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES 



!35 



flower in the autumn. Selection has been 
made for all-round qualities such as profusion 
of bloom, cutting, garden effect, variety of 
colour, and variety of type, as well as length 
of season, which will do well although given 
poor attention. 

Bush Roses 

Kaiserin Augusta Victoria (H.T.), white. 
Gruss an Teplitz (H.P.), crimson. 
General Jacqueminot (H.C.), dark red. 
Burbank (B.), pink, flowers till frost. 
Egan (W. H.), pink, always in flower. 
Mme. Plantier (H.N.), white. 
Souvenir de la Malmaison (H.T.), rich flesh. 
Mme. Caroline Testout (H.T.), silver pink. 

Climbers 

Debutante (W.H.), cherry red, flowers into time of frost. 
Seven Sisters (P.), crimson. 
Reine Marie Henriette (T.), bright cherry red. 
Baltimore Belle (P.), white. 

ROSES FOR CITY GARDENS 

In districts crowded with residences, with a 
minimum of light and air and a maximum of 
smoke and shadow, only the strongest roses 
of each group may be planted. A tolerable 
success may often be had even where the 



136 



ROSES 



smoke is that from soft coal. Of course 
roses must have some sunshine. 

Hybrid Perpetuals, Dark 
Baron de Bonstetten (H.P.), very dark red. 
Charles Dickens (H.P.), rose colour, large. 
Dr. Andry (H.P.), dark bright red. 
Dupuy Jamain (H.P.) brilliant cerise. 
General Jacqueminot (H.C.), dark bright red. 
Ulrich Brunner (H.P.), cherry red. 

Hybrid- Per petuals, Lighter Shades 
John Hopper (H.P.), lilac-rose with crimson centre. 
La France (H.P.), silvery pink. 
Mme. Gabriel Luizet (H.P.), pink. 
Magna Charta (H.P.), bright pink, suffused carmine. 
Paul Neyron (H.P.), pink. The largest of all roses. 

Bourbons 
Boule de Neige (B.), white. 
Mme. S. Cochet (B.), rose, edged white. 
Mme. I. Pereire (B.), rosy carmine. 
Queen of Bedders (B.), deep bright crimson. 

Teas and Noisettes 
Aimee Vibert (N.), white, clusters. 
Reine Marie Henriette (T.), cherry red. 
Gloire de Dijon (T.), yellow. 
Homer (T.), blush rose and salmon, variable. 

Climbers 

Crimson Rambler (M.), crimson. 
R. Wichuraiana, white, single. 

Also selections of the Rambler-Wichuraiana hybrids. 



ROSES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES 



J 37 



ROSES FOR SHRUBBERY 

Flowers are here a secondary considera- 
tion. The bush must be shapely, free from 
insects and diseases and of easier culture than 
garden roses. 

Climbers 

R. setigera and its group of garden forms, red chiefly. 
Dundee Rambler (Ayrshire), white, good on tree trunks. 

Bush — Single Flowered 
Penzance Briers, white, pink to yellowish. 
Persian Yellow. 

The Scotch, white, pink, yellowish. 

R. lucida, pink or white. 

R. nitida, pink. 

R. rubiginosa, pink. 

R. rugosa, white or pink. 

R. blanda, pink. 

Bush — Double Flowered 
A few hybrids of R. rugosa, white or red. 
Some Scotch roses, white or pink. 
The Egan, pink (W.H.). 
Austrian Brier, yellow. 
Harison Brier, yellow. 

ROSES FOR EDGING WALKS 

Select dwarf compact roses, not of free 
growth or else naturally dwarf bushes that 
can be cut back with impunity; such are the 
native species. 



ROSES 



R. multiflora nana — a dwarf form of the tall species; 

very free flowering, white. 
R. Chinensis, var. minima (R. Lawrenciana), one foot, 

crimson. 

The Scotch in variety: dwarf, arching, good in sandy 

soil, white to pink. 
Madame Norbert Levavasseur (R.H.), flowers when only 

a few inches high, crimson. 

Mow These Down Every Tear or Two 
R. blanda, pink, bright red back. 
R. lucida, white and pink. 
R. nitida, pink, hardy. 
R. rubiginosa, pink, sweet-scented foliage. 

Train on the Ground or on a Frame 
Crimson Rambler and allied hybrids. 
R. Wichuraiana. 
R. multiflora. 

ROSES FOR THE WILD GARDEN 

They must be of the easiest possible cul- 
tivation, single, free growing and should be 
allowed to climb or trail at will over other 
shrubs. All the native species find a most 
appropriate place in the wild garden where 
they will flourish and attain a beauty of per- 
fection not dreamt of in the fields; they 
should be located in a meadow-like effect. 
Any one who has visited the Arnold Arbore- 
tum in Boston will recall the richness of the 



ROSES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES 



139 



wild rose flora in the meadow and along the 
edges of the drives and walks. That is the 
model. 

Multifloras Polyanthas. All native roses, especially 
R. lucida, nitida, and blanda. 

ROSES FOR CLOTHING STEEP BANKS 

These must be free or even rampant 
growers that will cover the surface quickly. 
A beautiful effect can be had in some situa- 
tions by planting on the top of a mound and 
letting the growths trail down. 

Downward Hanging 
R. Wichuraiana, single white. 

Debutante (Seedling from C. Rambler), soft pink, flowers 
twice. 

Dundee Rambler (Ayrshire), white. 

R. multiflora, white, large corymbs of single flowers. 

Crimson Rambler, crimson. 

Wichuraiana hybrids. 

Philadelphia (R.H.), flowers before Crimson Rambler, 

almost same colour. 
Evergreen Gem (W.H.), white, single. 
Pink Roamer (W.H.). 

South Orange Perfection (W.H.), rosy blush. 
Sweetheart (W.H.), delicate blush. 

Upright Bushes 
R. lucida, pink or white. 
R. blanda, pink. 

R. setigera (semi-upright), and its varieties. 



140 



ROSES 



ROSES FOR CEMETERIES 

Light-coloured roses that can stand neglect. 
But don't neglect them! 

For Flower Only 

Maman Cochet (T.), pink; also a white form. 
Hermosa (Bengal), pink. 
Burbank (B.), pink, blooms till frost. 
Mme. Plantier (H.N.), white. 

✓ For both Foliage and Flowers 

R. rugosa, white form, also effective in fruit. 
Mme. Georges Bruant (Hybrid of R. rugosa), white. 
Harison Yellow (Brier), semi-double, easier to grow than 
the Persian. 

Egan (W.H.), pink, makes a shapely bush, free from 
disease. 

ROSES FOR VERANDAS OR PILLARS 

If the arbours and arches are exposed to 
severe winter winds bend down the wood and 
bury it in a trench, leaving the roots undis- 
turbed. Great things are now possible 
through the hybrids of the Crimson Rambler. 

Crimson Rambler Type 

Crimson Rambler (M.), crimson. 
Dorothy Perkins (R.H.), bright pink. 
Philadelphia (R.H.), like the Crimson Rambler, but 
earlier. 



For shrubbery single roses are most fitting, and the bush must be sightly all 
the season and of the easiest culture. The Altai rose (Rosa spinosisima, var. 
Altaica), a variety of the Scotch rose, has larger flowers and more vigorous 
habit than the type. It has white flowers succeeded by globular black fruit 



ROSES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES 



Psyche (M.), pink, large flowers in clusters. 
Dawson (W.H.), a pink Rambler. 
Lady Gay (R.H.), bright, clear red, very striking. 
Debutante (W.H.), soft pink, small flowers until frost. 
Minnehaha (W.H.), dark rose, very double. 

Other Types 
Baltimore Belle (P.), white. 

The Ayrshire Roses (including Dundee Rambler), pink 

to red and white. 
Carmine Pillar (Single H.P.), very showy. 
Rosa setigera, pink. 
Queen of the Prairies (P.), crimson. 

FOR SANDY SOILS OR SEASIDE 

The favourite H.P. roses, if budded on the 
Dog Rose or Brier, can often be grown very 
successfully in such situations, but the one 
rose par excellence is R. rugosa. 

Trailers 

R. Wichuraiana, semi-evergreen, single, white. 
Gardenia (W.H.), a semi-evergreen, double white. 
Evergreen Gem (W.H.), a semi-evergreen, creamy white, 
single, large flower. 

Upright 

Egan (W.H.), pink. 

Rosa rugosa and its hybrids, red to white. 
The Scotch, white, pink and yellowish. 



142 



ROSES 



Penzaflce Sweetbriers — including Brenda, Rose Brad- 
wardine, Amy Robsart, Meg Merrilies, etc. — white, 
pink and orange. 

ROSES FOR CUT FLOWERS IN WINTER 

The following will bloom from autumn 
frost until May if properly managed. It is 
impossible to tell in advance of actual trial 
whether a rose will force easily and well and 
be acceptable to the public. The following 
are commercially successful in the East and 
are suitable for amateurs to grow. The list 
is based on a selection by the late E. G. 
Asmus. 

The Unquestioned Leaders 

The Bride (T.), white. 

Bridesmaid (T.), pink. 

Perle des Jardins (T.), yellow. 

Golden Gate (T.), blush. 

American Beauty (H.P. or H.T.), red. 

Liberty (H.T.), glowing crimson. 

Ulrich Brunner (H.P.), cherry red. 

Other Favourites — Teas and Hybrid Teas 

Mrs. Pierpont Morgan, cherry red. 

Madame Hoste, yellow, 

Mme. de Watteville, salmon-white. 

Ma Capucine, apricot. 

Sunset, deep apricot. 



ROSES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES 



H3 



Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, white. 
Meteor, very dark red. 
Killarney, bright pink. 

Hybrid Perpetuals 

Baroness Rothschild, clear pink. 

General Jacqueminot (H.C.), red. 

Magna Charta, bright pink. 

Gabriel Luizet, pink. 

Paul Neyron, rose. 

Anna de Diesbach, clear rose. 

ROSES FOR POTS AT CHRISTMAS AND EASTER 

Free-growing, cluster-flowered roses that 
are easily forced for either holiday. White 
and light colours are preferred for Easter, 
red for Christmas. Plants two to four feet 
high are generally preferred. 

Crimson Rambler, the greatest favourite, grown naturally 

or trained into fantastic forms. 
Madame Norbert Levavasseur — the Baby Rambler — is 

a dwarf hybrid from the above, crimson, flowers 

from three inches up. 
Little Gem (Moss), pink. 
Blanche Moreau (Moss), white. 

Dorothy Perkins (R.H.), bright pink equivalent of the 

older Crimson Rambler. 
Lamarque (N.), white, an old favourite now rarely seen. 
Varieties of the Prairie group (e. g., Russell's Cottage) 

do well; all of rich crimson red shades, worth a trial 

by the amateur. 



i 4 4 



ROSES 



ROSES FOR GREENHOUSE DECORATION 

Roses for this purpose should make a free 
growth and cover a good space in a season; 
therefore climbing roses are best. The 
larger-flowered kinds mav be used for cut 
flowers also. Train the vines along the 
rafters, on a wire or upon a trellis against the 
wall. 

The Cherokee — a very tender Southern rose (R. laevigata), 

flowers single, white and large. 
Marechal Niel (N.), yellow. 
Niphetos (T.), white. 
Reine Marie Henriette (T.), cherry red. 
Gloire de Dijon (T.), creamy yellow. 
Climbing La France and other climbing forms of the 

popular varieties. 
Banksia — useful if grown only for its foliage, small 

flowers, pale yellow or white, having the odour of 

violets. 

ROSES FOR BOUTONNIERES 

A gentleman who wears a rose bud in his 
coat lapel every day wishes a moderate-sized, 
compact, half-open bud of lasting quality. 
The following are adapted to this purpose 
(the Persian Yellow least of all), and are also 
desirable for garden decoration and cut 
flow T ers. 




THE ONLY TYPE OF ROSE FIT FOR A LAWN 

The common garden roses are worthless for landscape effects. Rosa 
rugosa is the best for this purpose, because its bush is always sightly and 
practically insect- and blight-proof. Blanc de Coubert, a semi-double white 
hybrid variety four to six inches across, blooms all summer. 



ROSES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES 



Hardy 

Common Moss, pink. 
White Bath (Moss), white. 
Persian Yellow (Brier), yellow. 
Blanche Moreau (Moss), pink. 
A. K. Williams (H.P.), dark red. 
General Jacqueminot (H.C.), dark red. 
Prince C. de Rohan (H.P.), dark red. 

Tender 

Catherine Mermet (T.), pink. 

Homer (T.), pink. 

Ma Capucine (T.), pink. 

The Bride (T.), white. 

Meteor (T.), dark red. 

Perle des Jardins (T.), light yellow. 

W. A. Richardson (N.), terra-cotta. 

ROSES FOR THEIR FRUITS 

For table decoration in winter: 

Euphrosyne, small hips in large clusters. 
Thalia, small hips in large clusters. 
R. rugosa, large hips. 

Brenda, one of the Penzance Sweetbriers, is strikingly 
effective. 

ROSES FOR GREAT MASSES OF FLOWERS 

It is impossible to have the best flowers and 
the best bush at the same time. If roses are 
grown for a big floral display, the bushes or 



146 



ROSES 



vines are almost sure to be unsightly when 
out of bloom. Therefore, the rosarium or 
formal rose garden, which is designed for a 
big display of double flowers, should be in an 
enclosed, out-of-the-way place where it will 
not interfere with landscape effects. The 
following are excellent for entrances to rose 
gardens or hedges surrounding them: 

Rosa Mundi (F.), striped red and white. 
The Scotch, white to pink. 
Mme. Hardy (D.), white. 
Persian Yellow (Brier), yellow. 
Crimson Rambler (M.), crimson. 

R. rugosa, single, pink or white, best for hedges, always 
sightly. 

Also the stronger growing popular varieties 
of the H.P. group as enumerated in the lists 
of resistant and town roses. 

ROSES FOR "STANDARDS" IN FORMAL GARDENS 

The object of "standards" is to break the 
low level of the rose beds. They fit formal 
gardens only, and are effective for an "ave- 
nue" effect on the sides of the principal walks. 
As ordinarily grown, standard roses are not 
successful in our gardens, as they suffer from 
bark scald in summer and they die in winter. 



ROSES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES 



H7 



This list includes some roses that are noto- 
riously not hardy in the East, but if the stems 
are of R. canina and are wrapped in moss in 
summer they will do grandly. Then for the 
winter dig up the entire plants and bury in 
trenches eighteen inches deep. 

Reds and Pinks 
Souvenir de la Malmaison (H.T.), rich flesh. 
General Jacqueminot (H.C.), deep red. 
Paul Neyron (H.P.), pink. 

Prince Camille de Rohan (H.P.), very dark crimson. 
Reynolds Hole (H.P.), extremely dark crimson. 
La France (H.T.), silvery pink. 

Yellows and Whites 
Gloire de Dijon (T.), pale yellow. 
Kaiserin Augusta Victoria (H.T.), white. 
Madame Falcot (T.), saffron yellow. 
Belle Lyonnaise (T.), deep canary yellow. 
William Allen Richardson (N.), apricot. 
Marechal Niel (N.), yellow. 

FOR HEAVY CLAY SOILS 

All roses like a clayey soil, but the groups 
here named are especially suited for very heavy 
soil. Such soil should be lightened by plenty- 
ful admixture of well-rotted manure. If the 
soil is very stiff, the plants would best be on 
Manetti stock, when not on own roots. This 



i 4 8 



ROSES 



selection gives a good range of all colours 
except yellow. 

The Bousalt group. 
Damask group. 
Hybrid Bourbon group. 

ROSES FOR FOREGROUND 

Dwarf-growing roses for fronting large beds 
or for use in the foreground of shrubbery 
borders where a double-purpose garden is 
maintained are very useful. 

The Scotch (suckers very freely and must have plenty of 
room). 

Gustave Piganeau (H.P.), eighteen inches to two feet. 
Baroness Rothschild (H.P.), eighteen inches to two feet. 
Fairy Rose, R. Chinensis, var. minima, known to the 

trade as R. Lawrenciana, very dwarf, crimson. 
Mme. Norbert Levavasseur (R.H.), very dwarf, crimson. 

ROSES IN SPECIAL RELATION TO MILDEW 

Resistent V arieties 

From notes and records taken at Elizabeth 
Park, at Hartford, Conn.: 

Glory of Cheshunt (H.P.), crimson. 
Comtesse Cecile de Chabrillant (H.P.), pink. 
Victor Verdier (H.P.), bright rose. 
Eclair (H.P.). 
Dr. Andry (H.P.). 



ROSES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES 



I49 



Madame Alfred Carriere (H.P.). 
Gloire de Dijon (T.). 
Reine Marie Henriette (T.). 
Madame Plantier (H.C.). 
Philadelphia (R.). 
White Bath (Moss). 

Particularly Subject to Mildew 

The Hybrid Perpetuals as a class may be 
said to be liable to mildew: 

Captain Christy (H.T.). 
Mildred Grant (H.T.). 
Helen Keller (H.P.). 
Caroline de Sansal (H.P.). 
Madame Gabriel Luizet (H.P.). 
Jules Margottin, slightly (H.P.). 
Etienne Lever, slightly (H.P.). 
Eugene Furst (H.P.). 
Earl Dufferin (H.P.). 
Lady H. Stewart (H.P.). 
Marchioness of Lome (H.P.). 
Blanche Moreau, badly (Moss). 
Crimson Rambler (M.). 

THE MOST SWEETLY SCENTED ROSES 

As a rule, roses must be either sweetly 
scented or large flowered to be really popular. 
A few famous roses have no appreciable 
odour, e. g., Baroness Rothschild, Victor 
Verdier, and Captain Christy. 



ROSES 



Medium-sized Flowers 

Damask (R. Damascena group), scent leaves petals on 

drying; pink and white. 
French (R. Gallica group), scent retained on drying; all 

colours. 
Moss group, white to pink. 

Musk group, generally white, a few pink or red; most 

fragrant in a still moist atmosphere. 
Noisettes, hybrids of the true musk; all colours. 

Large Flowered 

The Tea group; all are more or less scented with the 
characteristic tea odour. They require winter pro- 
tection. Gloire de Dijon, yellowish, and Marechal 
Niel (really a Noisette) , yellow, are especially fragrant. 

Hybrid Perpetuals: Paul Verdier, light red; American 
Beauty, red; Baron de Bonstetten, dark red; Com- 
tesse de Chabrillant, pink; General Jacqueminot, 
dark red; Senateur Vaisse, brilliant red. 

ROSES FOR CHICAGO 

Compiled from Mr. W. C. Egan's reports. 
The climate of the lake shore is very trying, 
and the experience of years has given the fol- 
lowing as the most reliable: 

Bedding or Bush Roses 

Prince Camille de Rohan (H.P.), deep crimson. 
Magna Charta (H.P.), bright pink. 
Mrs. R. G. Sharman Crawford (H.P.), red. 
Capt. Christy (H.T.), white. 



ROSES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES I5I 



General Jacqueminot (H.C.), red 

Mrs. Paul (H.P.), violet-red. 

Louis Van Houtte (H.P.). red shaded amaranth. 

Crested Moss, pink. 

Climbers 

Seven Sisters (P.), crimson. 
Crimson Rambler (M.), bright crimson. 
Carmine Pillar (single H.P.), bright crimson. 
Dawson (R.H.), light pink. 

ROSES FOR THE OHIO AND MISSOURI VALLEYS 

By a rosarian in Kentucky. This is a 
betwixt and between territory, too severe for 
the real Southern roses, and yet decidedly 
warmer than the regular Eastern section. In 
the course of a tour these roses were noted as 
thriving best over the widest areas. This list 
shows how generally adapted to widely differ- 
ent areas are some of the best-known roses 
of the East. 

Hybrid Perpetuals 

General Jacqueminot (H.C.), dark red. 
Charles Lefebvre, bright crimson. 
Camille de Rohan deep crimson. 

Cluster Roses 

Pacquerette (Polyantha Perpetual), pure white, small. 
Hermosa (Bourbon), deep pink. 
Agrippina (Bengal), velvety crimson. 



*52 



ROSES 



Tea and Hybrid Tea 
La France (H.T.\ silvery rose. 
Malmaison (H.T.\ rich flesh. 
Clothilde Soupert (T.), rosy carmine. 
Duchesse de Brabant (T.\ rosy pink. 
Homer (T.), blush rose, variable. 
Francisca Kruger (T.), copper}- yellow. 
Marie Van Houtte (H.T.^, white tinted yellow. 
Sombreuil (T.), white, tinged, rose. 

ROSES FOR SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA 

From Mr. Ernest Brauntoir s list. California 
is the land where Tea Roses can be grown out- 
doors. Its climate is more like that of 
southern Europe than the eastern Lnited 
States, and almost every kind of rose can be 
grown on the Pacific Coast. 

Bush 

Marie Van Houtte (H.P.). 
Mam an Cochet (T.h 

Climbers 

Lamarque (X.). 
Marechal Xiel (T.). 
Reine Marie Henriette (T.). 
Beauty of Glazenwood (C.)- 

ROSES FOR OREGON 

Roses flourish in this region, and a list of 
selections can be regarded only as a guide to 
types — an immense number could be cited. 



ROSES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES 



153 



These are selected from reports of Mr. W. S. 
Sibson, Portland. 

Hybrid Teas 

La France, pink. 

Madame C. Testout, silvery pink. 

Viscountess Folkestone, creamy white, salmon centre. 

Hybrid Perpetuals 
Abel Carriere, very dark colour. 
Baron de Bonstetten, very dark. 
Capt. Christy, white. 
General Jacqueminot (H.C.), crimson. 
Gloire Lyonnaise, white. 
Marie Baumann, bright crimson. 
Ulrich Brunner, bright rose colour. 
Victor Verdier, bright rose colour. 
Merville de Lyon, very light, white shaded pink. 
Clio, flesh pink. 

ROSES FOR MISSOURI 

From a local correspondent. The climate 
is trying and hardiness must be sought. Still 
there are surprises in store, as some of the 
Teas do well, with protection from frost in 
winter, of course. 

Hermosa (Bengal), pink. 

Malmaison (H.T.), rich flesh. 

Kaiserin Augusta Victoria (H.T.), white. 

Madame Caroline Testout (H.T.), silver pink. 

Clothilde Soupert (T.), cherry red. 

Homer (T.), pink. 



154 



ROSES 



Mme. G. Bruant (Rugosa hybrid), white. 
Isabella Sprunt (T.), yellow. 
Papa Gontier (T.), rosy crimson. 
Marie Baumann (H.P.), bright carmine. 
Coquette des Alpes (N.), white shaded rose. 

TEA ROSES FOR OUTDOOR CULTIVATION IN 
NEW JERSEY 

List furnished by Mr. James M. Chapman, 
Monmouth County, who is able to grow 
Hybrid Teas by covering the plants with litter 
a foot deep in winter. 

Pink and Salmon 
Augustine Guinoisseau, flesh pink. 
President Carnot, pale pink. 
La France, silvery pink. 
Pink Maman Cochet. 
Bon Silene, rosy salmon. 
Mme. Abel Chatenay, salmon. 

Red 

Souvenir de Wootton, rosy red. 
Liberty, glowing deep red. 
Baldwin, deep red. 
American Beauty, red. 

White 

Kaiserin Augusta Victoria. 
White Maman Cochet. 

Buff 

Mme. Germaine Trochon. 
Safrano. 



PRAIRIE ROSES ARE UNEQUALLED FOR COVERING 
TREE TRUNKS 

The Baltimore Belle, a cluster rose of this group, flowers eight months of 
the year in California, and under the best conditions grows thirty or forty feet 
high at Del Monte. It is equally valuable in the East as a climbing rose on 
tree trunks, trellises, posts, etc. Tie or tack the main branches when planting 



ROSES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES 155 



ROSES FOR ONTARIO 

Captain C. R. Hext, Brantford, grows all 
these H.P/s with slight protection, in order 
to insure complete safety, although they are 
hardy and grow in the southern part of the 
province without protection. After repeated 
trials of giving protection with leaves, long 
straw, manure, etc., success with Teas is still 
lacking. 

Alfred Colomb 
Anna de Diesbach 
Baroness Rothschild 
General Jacqueminot 
Jules Margottin 
Louis van Houtte 
Mabel Morrison 
Magna Charta 
Marie Baumann 
Merveille de Lyon 
Paul Neyron 

Prince Camille de Rohan 
The Prairie Roses, for climbers 

ONE HUNDRED GOOD ROSES FOR THE LATI- 
TUDE OF NEW YORK 

By Commander Aaron Ward. The assort- 
ment of one hundred roses named in the 
following list includes the leading varieties 
found satisfactory in the North, when given 



i 5 6 



ROSES 



the general treatment recommended else- 
where in this book. The color division is 
rather arbitrary, and in the case of Teas and 
Hybrid Teas it indicates merely the principal 
or primary colour of the beautiful combina- 
tions found in these roses. Single roses, 
Luteas, Damasks, Wichuraianas and others 
of interest only to the general collector are 
intentionally omitted. 



BUSH ROSES 

White. — Bourbon: K. P. Victoria, Souv. 
de la Malmaison. Bengal: Ducher. Poly- 
anthas: Etoile de Mai, Marie Pavie. Rugosa: 
Blanc Double de Coubert, Mme. G. Bruant. 
Tea: White Mme. Cochet. Hybrid Teas: 
Augustine Guinoisseau, E. Wilmot, Inno- 
cence, Kaiserin, Mme. J. Combet, Souv. 
Pres. Carnot. Hybrid Perpetuals: Frau K. 
Druschki, Margaret Dickson, Merveille de 
Lyon. 

Pink and White. — Teas: Anna Ollivier, 
Comtesse de Turenne. Hybrid Teas: An- 
toine Rivoire, Clara Watson, Grace Darling, 
Lady Clanmorris, Prince de Bulgarie, Vis. 
Folkestone. Polyantha: Clothilde Soupert. 



ROSES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES 157 



Pink. — Teas: Boadicea, G. Nabonnand, 
Maman Cochet. Hybrid Teas: Belle Sie- 
brecht, Camoens, Ferd. Jamin, Killarney, 
Mme. C. Testout, Mme. J. Grolez, Papa 
Lambert. Hybrid Perpeiuals: Anna de Dies- 
bach, Baron de Rothschild, Mme. Gabriel 
Luizet, Mrs. John Laing, Mrs. R. S. Craw- 
ford, Paul Neyron. Bourbon: Mrs. Paul. 
Rugosa: C. F. Meyer. 

Salmon.— Tea. ; Souv. de C. Guillot (ten- 
der). Hybrid Tea: Mme. A. Chatenay. 
Bengal: Aurore, Queen Mab (tender). 

Bright Red. — Teas: Jules Finger, Souv. 
J. B. Guillot (thin). Hybrid Teas: Gruss an 
Teplitz. Hybrid Perpetuals: Alfred Colomb, 
Comtesse d'Oxford, Eclair, Fisher Holmes, 
La France of '89, Mme. Victor Verdier, 
Marie Baumann, Ulrich Brunner. Poly- 
anthas: Leonie Lamesch, Mme. N. Le- 
vavasseur. 

Dark Red. — Hybrid Tea: Etoile de France. 
Hybrid Perpetuals: G. Lefebvre, E. Furst, 
Jean Liabaud, Louis Van Houtte, Prince 
C. de Rohan, Souv. de W. Wood, Victor 
Hugo. 

Light Yellow. — Tea: Marie Van Houtte. 
Hybrid Teas: Amateur Teyssier, F. Deegen, 



i 5 8 



ROSES 



Mile. H. Cambier, Mme. Pernet Ducher. 
Bengal: Frau S. Roeloffs. Polyantha: Perle 
d'Or. 

Dark Yellow. — Teas: Doctor Grill, Fran- 
cisca Kruger. Hybrid Teas: Le Progres, 
Mme. H. Leuillot, Mme. Ravary. Bengal: 
Mme. E. Resal. Polyantha: Eugenie La- 
mesch. 

CLIMBERS 

White. — Prairie: Baltimore Belle. Poly- 
antha: Thalia. 

Bright Red. — Tea: Reine Marie Hen- 
riette. Rambler: Crimson Rambler. Noi- 
sette: Reine Olga. Hybrid Perpetual: Ard's 
Rover. 

Yellow. — Polyantha: Aglaia. Tea: Duch- 
esse d'Auerstadt. Noisettes: Bouquet d'Or, 
Reve d'Or. 

Violet-rose. — Multi-flora: Helene. 

Carmine and Yellow. — Tea: Souvenir de 
Mme. L. Viennot. 

Pink. — Bourbon: Climbing Malmaison. 
Polyantha: Euphrosyne. Prairie: Prairie 
Queen. 

Salmon Shades. — Tea: Mme. Berard. 
Noisette: W. A. Richardson. 



ROSES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES I59 



ROSES THAT CAN BE EASILY BOUGHT 

Of the thousands of roses that have been 
introduced to our gardens, a great majority 
are not known in the American trade to-day. 
Some are not suited to the climate, others are 
not sufficiently distinct from some others to 
merit a place, or there may be reasons of a 
trade nature why certain roses are not offered 
to the amateur here. It is of interest to 
know just what varieties may be ordered 
with a reasonable certainty of having the 
order filled without undue delay. The fol- 
lowing list is compiled from the catalogues 
of wholesale importers and the auction 
sales lists. Rose specialists will be able to 
supply others not named here, but these 
are the roses in best actual demand: 

Hybrid Perpetual 
Abel Carriere, dark crimson purple. 
Alfred Colomb, brilliant crimson. 
Baroness de Rothschild, light rose. 
Capt. Christy, delicate flesh coloured. 
Celine Forestier, rich yellow. 
Comtesse Julie de Schulenberg, dark red. 
Duke of Edinburgh, very bright, rich scarlet crimson. 
Duke of Teck, clear vivid scarlet crimson. 
Elizabeth Vigneron, pink. 
Emperor, dark crimson, nearly black. 
Frau Karl Druschki, snow white. 



i6o 



ROSES 



General Jacqueminot, glowing scarlet crimson. 

Gloire de Bourg La Reine, dark red. 

Gloire de Margottin, red. 

Jules Margottin, brilliant glossy pink. 

Magna Charta, bright pink. 

Marchioness of Lome, rich red, shaded carmine. 

Margaret Dickson, pure white. 

Marie Baumann, carmine. 

M. Boncenne, velvety blackish crimson. 

Mrs. John Laing, soft rosy pink. 

Mme. Chas. Wood, brilliant red. 

Mrs. R. G. Sharman Crawford, clear rose, pink and 

pale flesh. 
Paul Neyron, deep rose. 
Paeonia, light red. 

Perle des Blanches, white, pale centre. 

Princess de Beam, dark crimson. 

Suzanne Marie de Rodocanachi, deep scarlet. 

Tom Wood, cherry red. 

Ulrich Brunner, cherry red. 

Victor Verdier, cherry. 

Victor Hugo, brilliant crimson. 

Teas, Hybrid Teas and Noisettes 
Amabilis, pink. 

Belle Siebrecht, bright rosy pink. 

Dr. Grill, coppery yellow, shaded with light yellow. 

Duchesse d'Auerstadt, bright golden yellow. 

Duchess Hedwig Aremberg, pink, dark centre. 

Etoile de Lyon, sulphur. 

George Schwartz, dark canary yellow. 

Gloire de Lvon, carmine, shaded with amber and cream 

Grossherzog Ernest Ludwig, bright red. 

G. Nabonnand, light rose yellow. 



ROSES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES 



161 



Gruss an Teplitz, crimson scarlet. 

Helen Gould (Baldwin), rosy crimson. 

Jubilee, velvety crimson. 

Kaiserin Augusta Victoria, white. 

L'Innocence, purest milk white. 

Maman Cochet, deep flesh colour. 

Marie Van Houtte, lemon yellow, edged rose. 

Meteor, silvery crimson. 

Mme. Abel Chatenay, rosy carmine, shaded with salmon. 
Mme. Emil SoufFrain, dark yellow centre, pink outside 

and light yellow. 
Mme. Francisca Kruger, coppery yellow. 
Mme. Jos. Combet, cream white shaded rose. 
Mme. Jules Grolez, silver rose, shaded with yellow. 
Mme. Lombard, rosy bronze, shaded with carmine. 
Mme. Pierre Cochet, yellowish white, centre deep yellow. 
Mme. Wagram, saintly rose and rosy flesh, changing to 

Chinese red. 
Papa Gontier, bright rosy crimson. 
Perle des Jardins, pale yellow. 
President Carnot, bright rose. 
Princess de Sagan, velvety crimson. 
Queen's Scarlet, rich velvety scarlet. 
Souvenir de Catherine Guilot, coppery orange red, 

yellow base. 
Souvenir de la Malmaison, rich flesh colour. 
Souvenir de Wootton, rich velvety red. 
Viscountess Folkestone, creamy pink, centre salmon. 
W . A. Richardson, deep orange yellow. 
W hire Maman Cochet, white. 

Climbing Roses 
Aglaia, the yellow Rambler. 
Baltimore Belle, double white. 



ROSES 



Clothilde Soupert, white. 

Euphrosyne, pink Rambler. 

Helene, light rose. 

Jules Margottin. 

Kaiserin Augusta Victoria. 

La France. 

Meteor. 

Prairie Queen, pink. 

Pysche, pink. 

Thalia, white Rambler. 

Zepherine Drouet, practically thornless rose, beautiful 
pink. 

Sweetbrier Roses 
Amy Robsart, deep rose. 
Edith Bellenden, pale rose. 
Flora Mclvor, white tinged with rose. 
Green Mantle, pink, white centre. 
Lady Penzance, coppery, tinted yellow. 
Lord Penzance, fawn colour. 
Lucy Pertram, deep crimson, white centre. 
Meg Merrilies, crimson. 
Rose Bradwardine, clear rose. 

Bengal or Monthly Roses 
Agrippina, red. 
Feliemberg, red. 
Hermosa, pink. 

Moss Roses 
Blanche Moreau, pure white. 
Captain Ingram, rich crimson. 
Chapeau de Napoleon, red. 
Comtesse de Murinais. 
Crested Moss, pale rosy pink. 
Crimson Globe, dark carmine red. 



ROSES FOR SPECIAL PURPOSES 1 63 



Doctor Berthier, brilliant cherry red. 
Glory of Mosses, carmine rose. 
Madame Moreau, red vermilion. 
Madame William Paul, clear rosy. 
Red Moss, red. 
Salet, vivid rose. 
White Moss, white. 
White Perpetual, white. 

Polyantha Roses 
Clothilde Soupert, ivory white, shaded with silvery 
rose. 

Gloire de Polyantha, citron rose, pale carmine. 

Marie Pavie, creamy white, edged with carmine rose. 

Mosella, chrome yellow. 

Mignonette, clear pink, passing to white. 

Pacquerette, small, pure white. 

Perle de Rouge, velvety crimson. 

Red Pet, red. 

White Pet, white. 

Rugosa Roses 

Double Red Rugosa. 
Double White Rugosa. 
Mme. Georges Bruant, white. 
Single Red Rugosa. 
Single White Rugosa. 

American Hybrid Ramblers 
Dorothy Perkins, pink. 
Evergreen Gem, creamy white. 
Philadelphia, like Crimson Rambler. 
Pink Roamer, pink, silvery white centre. 
South Orange Perfection, rosy blush. 
Universal Favorite, rose colour. 



164 



ROSES 



European Hybrid Ramblers 
Adelaide Moulle, pink. 
Alberis Barbier, canary yellow. 
Auguste Barbier, pink. 
Edouard Proust, flesh colour. 
Electra, double yellow. 

Elisa Robichon, free flowering, rose yellow shades. 

Francois Foucard, yellowish white. 

Paul Transon, double rose coloured. 

Queen Alexandra, very free flowering, semi-double, 

flowers. Like the Crimson Rambler. 
Rubin, dark red. 



f 



CHAPTER IX 

Roses of American Origin 

America has contributed comparatively 
few roses to the great list of varieties popularly 
known to-day. Yet two important groups 
are credited to us. About the year 1814 the 
first of the Noisette class was raised — a class 
that has in it some of the most pleasing of 
all cluster roses. John Champney of Charles- 
ton, South Carolina, fertilised the White 
Musk with pollen from the Blush China, 
which was named Champney's Pink Cluster. 
A Charleston florist raised a seedling from 
this which he sent to his brother in France — 
Louis Noisette — about 181 7. From this be- 
ginning the charming class of Noisettes 
(which properly, however, should have been 
called Champney Roses) was raised and 
distributed. The modern members of this 
group having a large admixture of Tea in 
them are not quite hardy. Some of the 
greatest of the yellow roses are of this section, 

165 



ROSES 



including Marechal Niel and Chromatella. 

From that one notable beginning little 
was done until quite recently, when the 
immense possibilities of the multiflora group 
(as exemplified in Crimson Rambler) and 
Rosa Wichuraiana gave a new impetus to 
rose production in America. We are to-day 
only beginning to realise the development 
in this group, which bids fair to be one 
characteristically American. These varieties 
answer the requirements of the average 
American garden better than many other 
plants, and though not roses of the older 
type, which will always be grown for cut 
flowers, still they are roses and fill a place in 
the garden and about the porch that no other 
plants have done so far. 



WHAT THE RAMBLER AND MEMORIAL ROSES 
HAVE GIVEN US IN TEN YEARS 

In 1893 the Wichuraiana Rose was first in- 
troduced into this country from Japan, by Mr. 
Jackson Dawson, and since then has steadily 
grown in favour for the several purposes 
to which it is so well adapted. It is a most 
interesting species, being hardy, pure white 



ROSES OF AMERICAN ORIGIN 



167 



single flowers, and resplendent green foliage. 
It has proved a valuable variety for hybridis- 
ing purposes, and from this plant as a seed- 
bearing parent several hybridists procured 
new varieties of the highest merit. 

The Crimson Rambler, from Japan, was 
also introduced in 1893, and it is safe to say 
that more plants of this variety have been 
sold than of any other rose for outdoor 
cultivation. As a parent it has produced 
some varieties of the highest merit. 

These roses may be grown as ground 
roses if so desired, or they may be trained as 
climbers for porches, trellises, archways or 
specimens on rustic posts. They grow vigor- 
ously in ordinary soils well enriched with 
manure, and are seemingly very free from 
attacks of insects. 

One of the most progressive of modern 
hybridists is Mr. Walsh, of Woods Hole, 
Mass., who has given these: 

Debutante (Wichuraiana and Baroness 
Rothschild), with double flowers two and one- 
quarter inches in diameter, pink, fragrant; 
September until frost; a desirable acquisition 
to the climbing roses. It is perfectly hardy. 

Sweetheart (Wichuraiana and Bridesmaid) 



ROSES 



has flowers double, borne in clusters, hanging 
gracefully. The flowering season continues 
for six weeks, and some flowers may be seen 
until frost. This may be classed as a semi- 
evergreen variety, since the foliage remains 
on the stems until February and the small 
shoots retain their leaves the whole year. 

Minnehaha (Wichuraiana and Paul Ney- 
ron) has dark rose flowers, borne on large 
trusses on long, stout stems. The foliage is 
light glossy green, hardy. 

Evangeline, has flowers two inches across, 
single, pure white. 

Lady Gay (Wichuraiana and Bardou Job) 
experts have pronounced to be the best of 
Mr. Walsh's hybrids. The colour is a 
combination of cherry pink, touched with 
vermilion, fading to pure white. It produces 
canes twelve to fifteen feet in length in one 
season, and so is admirably suited for 
trellises, porches, pergolas, etc. This is a 
fine forcing rose for Easter decoration. 

Hiawatha (Wichuraiana hybrid), is very 
floriferous; a bright crimson single flower, the 
base of petals white. 

Wedding Bells, a seedling from Crimson 
Rambler, is most floriferous. Some plants 



ROSES OF AMERICAN ORIGIN 



169 



in eight-inch pots at this writing have by 
actual count 300 flower buds on a plant. 
This is very distinct in foliage, a very light 
green colour with soft woolly texture, mid- 
ribs of leaves bright red. The flower is pink 
in the upper half of petal, white below; semi- 
double. 

W. A. Manda, South Orange, New Jersey, 
introduced in 1897 and 1899 a number 
of very distinct climbing roses, with R. 
Wichuraiana as one parent. They are prac- 
tically evergreen. 

Evergreen Gem, colour buff*, changing to 
almost white, sweetbrier perfume. 

Jersey Beauty, pale yellow, large single 
flowers, with bright yellow stamen, very 
striking. 

Manda s Triumph, double white, flowering 
in clusters, sweet scented. 

Pink Roamer, bright pink. 

South Orange Perfection, white, tipped with 
pink. 

Universal Favourite, double pink flowers, 
very fragrant. 

Mr. Jackson Dawson, Arnold Arboretum, 
Boston, Mass., has also produced some 
splendid varieties, raised from the Wichurai- 



170 



ROSES 



ana, among them the Dawson, vigorous 
grower, branches covered with double pink 
flowers. 

The Farquhar, sent out in 1903 by R. and 
J. Farquhar, is a grand variety, bright pink 
flowers, shiny foliage, a Wichuraiana hybrid, 
suitable for climbing or as a ground rose. 

W. H. Egan, another of the Dawson 
hybrids, was raised from R. rugosa. It has 
double pink flowers in clusters. The bush 
is compact, foliage moderately glossy and 
very free from insects. Always in flow^er. 

The Jackson Perkins Company intro- 
duced Dorothy Perkins in 1903; it is„ pink 
shading to white, and can be described as a 
pink Rambler. 

THE MIDDLE ERA 

The time between the two famous groups 
named above was bridged by a number of 
roses of various types, important in their 
day, and of which there is definite record as 
follows: 

Belle Americaine, raised by Daniel Boll, 
of New York, in 1837, and also Mme. Boll, 
H. R., a gr?.nd rose and a favourite to-day 
with many. 



ROSES OF AMERICAN ORIGIN 1 7 1 



Cornelia Cook, very large, pure white Tea, 
for years the favorite white for forcing, raised 
by Anthony Cook, of Baltimore, Md., in 1855. 

Anna Maria, Superba, Mme. Caroline 
Allen, Baltimore Bell and Queen of the 
Prairies, all raised by the late Mr. Feast, of 
Baltimore, in 1843. The two last-named 
varieties are well known by the people at 
large as hardy climbers suitable for almost 
any climate and position. Many million 
plants of these are now in general cultivation 
in every section of this country. 

Harisons Yellow, raised by the Rev. 
Harison, New York, in 1830, is well known 
as a lovely colour when in bloom, and as 
hardy as an oak tree. 

Beauty of Greenmount, 1854; Dr. Kane, 1856, 
and Geo. Peabody, 1857, all raised by Jas. 
Pentland, of Baltimore. 

Mrs. Hovey and Triumphant, 1850, Vno 
good pillar varieties, raised by Joshua Pierce, 
Washington, D. C. 

James Sprunt, Bengal, 1858, and Isabella 
Sprunt, Yellow Tea, 1865, two good varieties 
for many years; very popular; both raised by 
Rev. James Sprunt, Kenansville, X. C. 

Mrs. Degraw, Bourbon, a grand summer 



172 



ROSES 



bedding variety, raised by Wm. Burgess, 
Glen Cove, L. I., 1885. 

Marshall P. Wilder, H. R., a very beautiful 
variety and one of the best of its class, raised 
and introduced by Ellwanger & Barry, 
Rochester, N. Y., 1885, and Rosalie, another 
gem, by the same firm in 1884. 

Golden Gate, Tea, by Mr. Jones, of New 
Orleans, about 1888. 

American Beauty. Though not an Amer- 
ican variety, yet the credit of bringing it into 
popularity is due to the energy and foresight 
of one firm in this country, Messrs. Field 
Bros., of Washington, D. C; the correct 
name of this rose is Mme. Ferdinand Jamain; 
raised in France but of no particular value 
there. 

America (Noisette), raised by C. G. Page, 
1859, a very nice climber but not quite hardy. 

Peter Henderson & Co. have introduced 
some very beautiful varieties — they are: 

Setina, 1859, a sport from Hermosa, of 
climbing habit and not as widely planted as 
its merits deserve. 

American Banner, 1879, a striped form of 
Bon Silene, of no great value, except as a 
novelty. 



Roses of various types planted freely with herbaceous perennials make a gorgeous 
show of colour in June, and the general effect is pretty 



ROSES OF AMERICAN ORIGIN 



Sunset, Tea, 1883, a sport from Perle des 
Jardins and an acquisition to our list of 
forcing roses, being of a rich salmon shade 
of orange. 

Dinsmore, H. R., 1886, very similar to 
Mme. Chas. Wood, but a better constitution; 
a free, continuous, blooming variety for sum- 
mer bedding. 

Ruby Gold, Tea, 1892, raised by Mr. T. 
O'Connor, of Providence, R. L; it has an 
interesting history. Mr. O'Connor grafted 
Catherine Mermet on Marechal Niel, and 
it was from this graft that the sport was 
obtained. 

Jubilee, H. P., 1897, raised by Mr. M. H. 
Walsh, of Woods Hole, Mass., from seed 
of Victor Hugo X Prince Camille de Rohan. 
Its brilliant flaming crimson, with maroon 
shading and large size ranks it among the 
most distinct of its class. 

Mr. John Cook, of Baltimore, Md., has 
given us some really good roses in 

Souvenir de Wootton, 1 888, seedling of 
Louis Van Houtte x Bon Silene, a very 
valuable rose, deliciously sweet, of large size, 
bright cherry crimson, very free flowering. 

Marion Dingee, 1892, seedling of Duchess 



174 



ROSES 



of Edinburgh X Caserta, a valuable bedding 
rose, very free and good, bright glowing red. 

Mrs. Robert Garrett, 1896, seedling of 
Mme. C. Testout X Sombreuil, pale pink, 
very large flower and very free — a noble rose. 

White Cocbet, 1896, sport from Maman 
Cochet, and one of the most valuable roses 
ever introduced for summer use. 

The following were introduced by John N. 
May, of Summit, N. J.: 

The Bride, 1885, a white sport from Cathe- 
rine Mermet, and the most beautiful white 
rose ever introduced. 

Brighton Beauty, 1 89 1, bright red, very 
free flowering; as a bedding rose very desirable. 

Mrs. W. C. Whitney, 1894, H. T., beautiful 
clear deep pink, and the sweetest perfume of 
any known rose. 

Mrs. Pierpont Morgan, 1895, sport from 
Mme. Cusin, deeper in colour and very much 
larger, very sweet scented. 

Mrs. Oliver Ames, 1 902, sport from Mme. 
Cusin, lighter than Mrs. Pierpont Morgan — 
a very prettily shaded rose. 

Bridesmaid. F. L. Moore, Chatham, N. J., 
introduced 1892, a sport from C. Mermet, and 
the most valuable pink rose in commerce to-day. 



ROSES OF AMERICAN ORIGIN 1 75 



Climbing Perle, 1890, by John Henderson, 
Flushing, N. Y., very valuable yellow climber. 

Pearl Rivers, 1 890, by Dingee & Conard, 
West Grove, Pa., large ivory white, nice 
form. 

Rainbow, 1891, by John Sievers, San 
Francisco, Cal., striped white and red, a 
valuable bedding rose, sport from Papa 
Gontier. 

Vick's Caprice, 1889, by James Vick, of 
Rochester, N. Y., a sport from Archduchesse 
d' Autriche, variegated pink and w T hite, large 
size and free. 

Waban, 1891, by E. M. Wood & Co., 
Natick, Mass., another sport from C. Mer- 
met, but superseded by Bridesmaid. 

Maid of Honour, 1899, by HofFmeister, 
Cincinnati, O., very similar to the last 
named; also a sport from same variety. 

Admiral Dewey, by John H. Taylor, 1899, 
a very beautiful flesh-coloured sport of 
Caroline Testout. 

Lady Dorothea, 1898, by Mr. John H. 
Dunlop, Toronto, Canada, a lovely rose, 
ground colour similar to Safrano, with 
delicate pink shading, large size, and very 
free flowering. 



176 



ROSES 



RECENT ROSES 

Philip Breitmeyer's Sons in 1903 introduced: 
La Detroit, fiery pink, lighting up well at 
night. Very strong grower and a large bud. 

Urania, 1905, by Walsh, is a hardy ever- 
blooming rose; vigorous grower, strong, stout 
stems, colour bright scarlet crimson. Cup- 
shaped flowers. Seedling from American 
Beauty. 

Welle sley, a Hybrid Tea raised by Alex. 
Montgomery, 1904. A rose for forcing; 
rich pink, large flower. 

Richmond (Hybrid Tea), raised by the 
E. G. Hill Co., is a competitor of Liberty; 
hardy. 

Arcadia and B alette are Wichuraiana 
hybrids of Walsh, quite new. The former? 
remarkable in the double crimson scarlet 
varieties, and the latter a double rose-coloured 
variety of the Rambler type. 

Doctor Van Fleet, of Little Silver, N. J., is 
credited with these: 

Ruby Queen, Wichuraiana X Queen Scarlet, 
vigorous, hardy, bright, shining foliage; flowers 
quite double, three inches across, bright ruby 
red with clear white centre (1897). 




Rosa setigera, one of the native species, is well adapted for the wild garden. 
It is one of the parents of the Prairie Roses 



ROSES OF AMERICAN ORIGIN 1 77 



May Queen, Wichuraiana X Mme. Degraw. 
Very vigorous, canes ten to twenty feet long, 
flowers very large and double; clear bright 
pink (1897). 

Pearl Queen, Wichuraiana X Mme. Degraw. 
Vigorous grower, long canes and large 
foliage; flowers large and very double; pure 
white with blush centre (1897). 

Clara Barton, Clothilde Soupert X American 
Beauty. Very dwarf, ever-blooming; flowers 
three and one-half inches across, very double 
and perfect, highly perfumed, each bloom 
set in a perfect rosette of green leaves (1898). 

New Century, Clothilde Soupert X R. 
rugosa alba. Entirely hardy, fine rugosa 
foliage; flowers three to four inches across, 
very double, clear light pink with bright red 
centre, borne in clusters throughout summer; 
very fragrant (1902). 

Sir Thomas Lipton, Clothilde Soupert X R. 
rugosa alba. Similar to New Century but 
longer foliage; flowers very double, pure white 
and exceedingly fragrant. Opens out flat 
like a camellia (1904). 

Magnafrano, Safrano X Magna Charta. 
Vigorous and constant blooming; flowers on 
long stems, four to five inches across, double 



i 7 8 



ROSES 



and perfect; fine buds, bright rich crimson 
with scarlet shade. A magnificent forcing 
rose (1898). 

Philadelphia, Crimson Rambler X Victor 
Hugo. A duplicate of Crimson Rambler but 
rather more stocky in growth; flowers larger, 
more double, brighter crimson, ten days 
earlier, and better finished in every way. 
Foliage more resistant to disease; forces 
splendidly. Will probably supersede its 
parent in time (1903). 

Of these last roses it is not possible to do 
more than accord a mere mention, as their 
actual merits are not yet determined. There 
have been a number of other roses raised in 
America, even named and introduced to 
commerce, but they as quickly passed away. 
These have been ignored in the present list; 
the object being rather to demonstrate what 
has really been achieved by the American 
rose growers. Now, much more will un- 
doubtedly be done in the future, especially 
along two lines, namely: (1) Forcing va- 
rieties for cut flowers under glass in winter, 
and (2) hardy garden roses of the modern 
types, and other than the Hybrid Perpetual, 
Hybrid Tea, Noisette and Tea groups. 



INDEX 



Air and water, relations 
of, 88. 

Alba group, the, 112. 

Alpine group, the, 112. 

American Beauty, under 
glass, 76, 77, 102. 

American roses, list of 
best, 165. 

Animal manures com- 
pared, 31. 

Anthracnose, 61. 

Aphis, remedies for, 49. 

April pruning for tender 
roses, 35. 

Arsenate of lead solution, 
66. 

Austrian Brier group, the, 
114. 

Autumn flower of H. P.'s, 
how to induce, 26. 

planting, 19. 

pruning, 41. 

severe, bad results of, 
41. 

under glass, 89. 
Ayrshire group, the, 112. 

Banks, varieties for, 139. 
Banksia group, the, 113. 
pruning, 46. 



Bark louse, the, 50. 
Beds, edgings for, 10. 
lower than adjacent 

surface, 9. 
on the lawn, making, 8. 
sizes for, 6. 
when to make, 6. 
Benches, filling with soil, 
82. 

quantity of soil for, 77. 
size of, 109. 
vs. solid beds, 77. 
Bengal group, the, 113. 

pruning, 46. 
Black speck, 64. 

how to avoid, 94. 
spot disease, 51. 
Bloom, to be cut, 25. 

periods of, 120. 
Bone meal for the com- 
post heap, 80. 
Bottom heat for cuttings, 
103. 

Bourbon group, the, 113. 

pruning, 39. 
B our salt group, the, 112. 
Boutonnieres, varieties 

for, 144. 
Brier group, the, 114. 

pruning, 44. 

79 



i8o 



INDEX 



Brier group, suckers, 23. 

how to tell, 15, 18. 
Budded roses, experiment 
with, 16. 
objections to, 16. 
planting, 18. 
vs. own-root plants, 14, 
16. 

Buds, malformed, varie- 
ties having, 26. 

California, Southern, 

roses for, 152. 
Carnations grown with 

roses, 92. 
Carrying over, 95. 

solid beds for, 77. 
Cherokee, rose, pruning, 

_ 46. 

Chicago, roses for, 150. 
China group, the, 113. 

pruning, 46. 
Christmas, varieties for, 
143- 

City gardens, varieties 

for, 135. 
Classification of roses, 

practical, no. 
Clay soil improves colour, 

81. 

varieties for, 147. 
Climate and varieties, 
128. 

Climbers, pruning, 40, 43. 
distance to plant, 122. 
time for establishing, 
122. 



Climbers, time of flower- 
ing, 122. 

Cloudy weather, manag- 
ing the house in, 85. 

Colour best on clay soil, 
81. 

Compost heap, spring 
treatment of, 79. 

Composting rose soil, 79. 

Copper carbonate, for- 
mula for, 52. 

Cost of a house, 75. 

Covering tender roses for 
winter, 29. 

Cow manure for com- 
posting, 79. 
the best fertiliser, 31. 

Crimson Rambler as a 
stock, 17. 

Cultivation, deep, not 
good, 22. 
time for, 23. 
under glass, depth for, 

87- 

Cultural needs by groups, 
112. 

Cut flowers, varieties for, 
142. 

Cutting and pruning at 

same time, 105. 
Cutting-bench, the, 97. 
Cuttings, how to make, 

33> 97- 
plants, setting out, 34. 
propagation from, 97. 
rooted, shifting on,, 99. 
rooting, 33. 



INDEX 



181 



Cuttings, time for root- 
ing, 99, 103. 

Damask group, the, 115. 
Depth to cultivate, 22. 

to plant, 13. 
Disbudding, 26. 
under glass, 105. 
when to avoid, 27. 
Diseases, fungous, etc., 

described, 51. 
Disinfecting the benches, 

84, 108. 
Distance apart for Amer- 
ican Beauty, 105. 
to plant in beds, 6, 7. 
under glass, 83. 
Dormant planting of ten- 
der roses unsafe, 12. 
Downy mildew, 58. 
Drainage, essential, 5. 

how to provide, 6. 
Drying off potted plants, 
101. 

Easter, varieties for, 143. 

Edging walks, varieties 
for, 137. 

Edgings for beds, 10. 

Eel worm, 97. 

English and American 
comparisons, 14, 17. 

Established plants more 
hardy, 12. 

Even-span house, advan- 
tages of, 74. 



Evergreen group, the, 
116. 

Exposure for rose garden, 
best, 3. 

February time to prune, 
35- 

Fertiliser added to com- 
post, 80. 
formula, Prof. Stuart's, 

95- 

formulas, 31, 32. 
Fertilisers, 30. 

for amateurs' use under 

glass, 95. 
when to apply, 31, 32. 
Field-grown plants pre- 
ferred, 123. 
Filling the benches, 82. 
Firming the soil, 19. 
Flower characters of gar- 
den groups, 112. 
Flowers, faded, to be 
removed, 26. 
fine specimen, disbud- 
ding for, 26. 
specimen, growing for, 

ISO- 
time for cutting, 25. 

Foliage features of gar- 
den groups, 112. 

Forced roses, great de- 
mand for, 73. 

Forcing under glass, 
72. 

Foreground planting, va- 
rieties for, 148. 



182 



INDEX 



Fork better than spade, 
22. 

used for levelling, 82. 

French group, the, 115. 

Frost in relation to situa- 
tion, 4. 

Fruits, roses having deco- 
rative, 145. 

Fumigation by sulphur, 
84, 108, 

Garden roses, recom- 
mended, 131. 

Griffiths, Dr., fertiliser 
formula by, 32. 

Ground bone as fertiliser, 

Groups of garden roses, 
no. 

Growth, beginning of, 22. 

Habit of growth of gar- 
den groups, 112. 

Half-climbing roses, prun- 
ing, 43- 

Hardiest races, the, 122. 

Hardiness of budded and 
own-root roses, 16. 

Heating equipment neces- 
sary, 75. 
for a mixed house, 90. 
pipes, disposition of, 
77- 

Hellebore decoction, for- 
mula for, 48. 

Hillside, cost of house for, 
74. 



Houses for rose forcing, 
74. 

Huey, Dr. R., on budded 
stock, 28. 
on protection, 28. 
selections by, 131. 
Humus wanted in rose 

soils, 9. 
Hybrid China group, the, 

US- 
Hybrid French group, the, 

11 5- 

Hybrid Perpetual group, 

the, 116, 129. 
Hybrid Perpetuals, dis- 
tance for planting, 7. 

inducing autumn flower 
in, 26. 

in pots, 101. 

protected in cold re- 
gions, 30. 

pruning, 39, 42. 

soil for, 9. 
Hybrid Tea group, the, 
117. 

pruning, 42. 

pruning, time for, 39. 

Ideal rose, unattainable, 
127. 

site for rose garden, 3. 
Insect pests described, 47. 
Insects do slight damage, 
47- 

in greenhouses, killing, 

85- 

water for, 25. 



INDEX 



Iron sulphate as a fer- 
tiliser, 32. 
Iron vs. wood house, 75. 

Key to garden groups, 
in. 

Kerosene emulsion for 
mildew, 58. 

Late planting injured by 

sun, 20. 
Leaf blight, 53. 
Leaf-cutter bee, 51. 
Leaf hopper, the, 49. 
Leaf spot, 63. 
Levelling after planting, 

soil in benches. 82. 

Lime for the compost 
heap, 80. 

Lime-sulphur-salt wash, 
colouring for, 51. 

Lime wash, hot, formula 
for, 84. 

Locality and soil rela- 
tions, 78, 

Long Island, protection 
in, 28. 

Low ground and frost, 4. 

Manetti suckers, 24. 

suckers, how to tell, 15. 
Manure, fresh, for com- 

^ posting, 79. 

for beds must be old, 
10. 

for new beds, 6. 



Manure, rotted for com- 
^ posting, 79. 
liquid, 24. 

liquid, for plants under 

glass, 93, 94. 
liquid, for potted 

plants, 100. 
liquid, how to use, 24. 
where to put it, 10. 
Manuring under glass, 

93- 

Masses of flower, varieties 

for, 145. 
Mica added to light soils, 

81. 

Mildew, 54. 

and lime wash, 85. 

prevention of, 88. 

sulphur for, 107. 

varieties liable to and 
resistent, 148. 
Missouri, roses for, 153. 
Monthly rose group, the, 

Moss roses, pruning, 42. 
Mulch, object of, 27. 
removing in autumn, 
27. 

summer, 27. 
Mulching American 

Beauty, 106. 
potted plants, 100, 101. 
under glass, 93. 
under glass in spring, 

94. 

Multiflbra group, the, 
117, 



i8 4 



INDEX 



Musk group, the, 118. 

Native roses, pruning, 45. 

New Jersey, tender roses 
in, 154. 

Newly arrived plants, 
handling, n, 13. 

New York, one hundred 
good roses for, 155. 

Nitrate of soda as fer- 
tiliser, 31. 

Noisette group, the, 118. 

Ohio and Missouri val- 
leys, roses for, 151. 

Ontario, roses for, 155. 

Oregon, roses for, 152. 

Own-root vs. budded 
stock, 14, 16. 

Paris green, how to use, 
48. 

Pasture soils, comparison 
of, 80. 

Paths, grass or cinders 
for, 7. 

Penzance group, the, 114, 
Philadelphia, protection 
in, 28. 

roses for, 131. 
Pillar roses, protection 
for, 30. 

varieties, 140. 
Pit for dormant roses, 12. 
Planting, 13. 

a row, 14. 

budded plants, i8 c 



Planting, depth for, 13. 

evils of wrong, 13. 

from pots, 19, 83. 

in benches, distances 
for, 83. 

time for, n. 

under glass, 81. 
Plants, new, handling, 11. 
Plunging potted plants, 
101. 

Potassium sulphide solu- 
tion, 66. 

Pot-grown plants, setting 
out, 20. 

Potted plants, drying off, 
ior. 

management of, 100. 
Potting on young plants, 
99. 

Prairie groups, the, 118. 

Prickles, character of in 
garden groups, 112. 

Propagating house tem- 
peratures, 98. 

Propagation, 33, 97. 

Protection for new plants, 
12. 

for newly planted ten- 
der roses, 13. 
for pillar roses, 30. 
for standard plants, 30. 
for winter, 28. 
from spring thaws, 30. 
removing, 29. 
roses requiring, 28. 
winter, 27. 
Provence group, the, 118, 



INDEX 



185 



Provence group, pruning, 
42. 

Pruning after autumn 
planting, 19. 
autumn, 41. 
autumn-set plants, 35. 
bad for some varieties, 

37- 

Bourbons, 39. 
climbers, 40. 
directions, by groups, 
112. 

for carrying over, 96. 

for large flowers, 37. 

for quality, 38. 

for quantity, 37. 

how to do, 37. 

H. T. and T., time for, 

39- 

potted H. P.'s, 101. 
potted Teas, roi. 
Rugosas, 40. - 
rules for by classes, 
42. 

strong-growing varie- 
ties, 37. 

tender roses, time for, 
35- 

weak-growing varieties, 
40. 

when best done, 35. 
while gathering flowers. 



IO.v 



with definite views, 
37- 

Purchase or grow young 
stock? 97. 



Raisers and introducers, 
American, 165. 

Rambler and Memorial 
roses of ten vears, 
166. 

Rambler group, the, 117. 
Rosarian's calendar, a, 

69. 

Rose beetle, the, 47. 
Rose garden possible 
everywhere, 126. 
garden, where to make 

a, 3- 

slug, the, 48. 
Roses, as plants or flowers, 
124, 130. 

decorative in the gar- 
den, 124. 

easy to grow, 5. 

for warm light soils, 10. 

grown with carnations, 
92. 

of the future, 128. 
recent, 176. 
under glass, 72. 
varied uses for, 124. 
Rot due to deep planting, 
14. 

Routine of work, 22. 
Rugosa group, the, 119. 

how to plant, 121. 

pruning, 40. 
Rust disease, 59. 

Sand for cuttings, 98. 
Sandy soil, varieties for, 
141. 



INDEX 



Scale insects, 50. 

Scotch Rose group, the, 
114. 
pruning, 45^ 

Seaside, varieties for, 141. 

Seasons of flowering, 120. 

Selection for special pur- 
poses (see under va- 
rieties). 

Sempervirens group, the, 
116. 

Setting out cutting plants, 
34- 

Settling of bed, allow for, 
9- 

Shade for cuttings, 103. 
Shallow planting, effects 
of, 14. 

Sheep manure for liquid, 
94. 

Shrubbery, varieties for, 
137- 

Site for rose garden, ideal, 
3- 

should be new, 5. 
Soil adaptations by 
groups, 112. 
depth of, in benches, 

77- 

depth of, in solid beds, 

78. 

for American Beauty, 
104. 

for different classes, 9. 
for greenhouse, 78. 
for rose beds, 5. 
for young roses, 103. 



Soil, heavy, roses for, 81. 
light, roses for, 81. 
preferences of varieties, 
81. 

rich, importance of, 78. 

Solid beds, filling, 78. 
vs. benches, 77. 

Soot, soft coal, injury 
from, 25. 

South, roses for the, 129. 

Spade, when to use, 80. 

Spraying calendar, out- 
doors, 66. 

Spring vs. fall planting, 
12. 

Stakes, when necessary, 

38. 

when unnecessary, 39. 
Staking sometimes neces- 
sary, 21. 
Standards, difficulties at- 
tending, 126. 
protected by burying, 

3°- 

purposes of, 130. 
varieties for 146. 
Starting up H.P.'s in pots, 
101. 

Teas in pots, 100. 
Stock, Manetti vs. brier, 

17- 

the best, 17. 
Streamers, when to cut 

back, 35. 
Suckers, due to shallow 
planting, 16. 
how to know, 15. 



INDEX 



187 



Suckers, how to remove, 
23- 

how to treat, 15. 

told by their foliage, 23. 

where to look for, 23. 
Sulphur, burning, 84, 108. 

for mildew, 88, 107. 
Sunshine a necessity, 3. 
Sweetbrier group, the, 
114. 

Sweetly scented varieties, 

Syringing, 106. 

carried-over plants, 96. 
for healthy foliage, 24. 
in the greenhouse, 84, 
88. 

Tea group, the, 119, 129. 
Teas and Hybrid Teas, 
distance for plant- 
ing, 8. 
hybrid, etc., soil for, 10. 
in pots, 100. 
pruning, 39, 46. 
Temperature, and varie- 
ties, 91. 
for American Beauty, 
106. 

for plants in pots, 100, 
102. 

for propagating house, 

98. 

under glass, 87, 88. 
under glass, autumn, 

89. 

Tender roses, pruning, 46. 



Thr e e-quar ter-span 
house, advantages of, 
74- 

Thrips (see leaf hopper). 
Time of bloom, 120. 
Tobacco smoke for aphis, 
107. 

Tonk's fertiliser formula, 
3 2 - 

Tools for cultivating, 23. 
Trailing roses, pruning, 
44- 

Tree roots, protection 
from, 5. 
rob roses, 4. 

Vacation homes, roses 

for, 134. 
Varieties and tempera- 
tures, 91. 
easily bought, 159. 
for a mixed house, 90. 
mildew, resistent, 148. 
mildew, susceptible, 
149. 

of American origin, 

165. 

sw r eetly scented, 149. 
the best, 131. 
Variety selections: 
for banks, 139. 

" boutonnieres, 144. 

" cemeteries, 140. 

" Chicago, 150. 

" Christmas, 143. 

" city gardens, 135. 

" clay soils, 147. 



i88 



INDEX 



Variety selections: 

for cut flowers in win- 
ter, 142. 

" Easter, 143. 

" edging walks, 137. 

" foreground, 148. 

" fruit effects, 145. 

" greenhouse cut 
flowers, 142. 

" greenhouse decora- 
tion, 144. 

" heavy soils, 147. 

" masses of flower, 

145- 

" Missouri, 153. 

" New Jersey, 154. 

" New York, one 
hundred, 155. 

" Ohio and Missouri 
valleys, 151. 

" Ontario, 155. 

" Oregon, 152. 

" pillars, 140. 

" rose garden, 131. 

" sandy soils, 141. 

" seaside, 141. 

" shrubbery, 137. 

" Southern Califor- 
nia, 152. 

" standards, 146. 

" steep banks, 139. 

" vacation homes, 
134. 

" verandas, 140. 
" wild garden, 138. 
" winter cut flowers, 
142. 



Ventilating the house, 85, 

Ventilation, 84. 

for potted plants, 
100. 

in autumn, 89. 
Verandas, varieties for, 
140. 

Ward, Com., selection by, 
155- 

Ward's, Com., protection, 
28. 

Water as insecticide, 50. 
for aphis and red spi- 
der, 25. 
Watering after planting 
in greenhouse, 83. 
American Beauty, 105. 
before planting, 20. 
cuttings, 98. 
dormant plants, 12. 
over mulch, 27. 
under glass, 85. 
Whale-oil soap solution, 
66. 

When and how to spray, 
66. 

White rose group, the, 
112. 

Wichuraiana group, the, 
120. 

Wild garden, varieties for, 

138. 

Wild roses, pruning, 45. 
Winds, mwst protect 
from, 4. 



INDEX 189 

Winter flower, varieties Wood vs. iron house, 

for, 142. 75. 
protection (see protev - 

tion) . Young plants, potting on, 
Wire supports for plants 99. 

under glass, 108. 



JUN 19 1905 



\ 



i 



